Some laurel varieties grow into towering privacy screens while others stay as compact shrubs, so choosing the wrong one means years of constant pruning. Understanding the different types of laurel trees is the first step to avoiding that headache. Whether you need a fast-growing hedge or a low-maintenance border, there is a laurel for your exact spot.
Laurels are not all the same plant. Some are true laurels, while others just share the common name. This guide breaks down the most popular options, their growth habits, and their care needs.
Types Of Laurel Trees
Before you buy, you need to know the main categories. The most common garden laurels fall into a few distinct groups. Each has its own leaf shape, growth rate, and hardiness. Here is a quick breakdown of the big players.
Cherry Laurel (Prunus Laurocerasus)
This is the workhorse of the hedging world. It is tough, evergreen, and grows fast. You will see it used everywhere for privacy screens.
- Growth Rate: Fast, up to 2 feet per year.
- Hardiness: Zones 6-8.
- Sun: Full sun to deep shade.
- Leaf: Large, glossy, and dark green.
Cherry laurel is forgiving. It tolerates poor soil and heavy pruning. If you need a tall screen quickly, this is your best bet. However, it can get huge if left unchecked. Some varieties like ‘Otto Luyken’ stay smaller, around 4 feet tall.
Common Cherry Laurel Varieties
You have choices even within this species. The standard cherry laurel can reach 25 feet. For smaller gardens, look for dwarf cultivars.
- Schip Laurel: Narrower leaves, very popular for formal hedges.
- Otto Luyken: Compact, good for low borders.
- Rotundifolia: Broad leaves, very vigorous.
Portuguese Laurel (Prunus Lusitanica)
If you want a more refined look, this is the one. Portuguese laurel has smaller, darker leaves on striking red stems. It looks more elegant than the common cherry laurel.
- Growth Rate: Moderate, about 1 foot per year.
- Hardiness: Zones 6-9.
- Sun: Full sun to partial shade.
- Leaf: Small, pointed, and deep green.
This type is more drought-tolerant once established. It also handles heat better than cherry laurel. It makes a great formal topiary specimen. The red stems add winter interest when the sun hits them.
Bay Laurel (Laurus Nobilis)
This is the true laurel. It is the plant used for culinary bay leaves. It is also a classic Mediterranean tree. Unlike the cherry laurels, this one is not a fast grower.
- Growth Rate: Slow to moderate.
- Hardiness: Zones 8-10.
- Sun: Full sun preferred.
- Leaf: Aromatic, smooth, and pointed.
Bay laurel is perfect for containers. You can prune it into a pyramid or a standard lollipop shape. It does not like wet feet. Make sure the soil drains well. In colder zones, grow it in a pot and move it indoors for winter.
English Laurel
This is often confused with cherry laurel. In fact, it is a specific cultivar of Prunus laurocerasus. It is known for its massive leaves, sometimes up to 6 inches long.
- Growth Rate: Very fast.
- Hardiness: Zones 6-9.
- Sun: Shade tolerant.
- Leaf: Very large, thick, and leathery.
English laurel is the go-to for deep shade areas where other plants fail. It creates a dense, solid wall. But it needs regular trimming to keep it looking tidy. If you skip a year, it can become leggy.
Skip Laurel
This is a hybrid between cherry and Portuguese laurel. It is a favorite in the southeastern United States. It combines the fast growth of cherry laurel with the better disease resistance of Portuguese.
- Growth Rate: Fast.
- Hardiness: Zones 6-9.
- Sun: Full sun to part shade.
- Leaf: Medium size, lighter green.
Skip laurel is less prone to shot-hole disease. This makes it a lower-maintenance option. It still provides a solid privacy screen without the constant leaf drop.
Carolina Cherry Laurel
This is a native American species. It is very similar to cherry laurel but slightly more cold-hardy. It also has a more upright, columnar shape.
- Growth Rate: Moderate to fast.
- Hardiness: Zones 7-9.
- Sun: Full sun to shade.
- Leaf: Glossy, similar to cherry laurel.
This variety is excellent for narrow spaces. It grows tall but stays slim. It is also more resistant to pests than the common cherry laurel.
Spotted Laurel (Aucuba Japonica)
This is not a true laurel, but it is often grouped with them. It is a shade-loving shrub with yellow-spotted leaves. It adds a pop of color to dark corners.
- Growth Rate: Slow.
- Hardiness: Zones 7-9.
- Sun: Deep shade to partial sun.
- Leaf: Variegated, green with yellow spots.
Spotted laurel is not for hedging. It is a specimen plant. It works well under trees or on the north side of a house. It is extremely tough and ignores pollution.
How To Choose The Right Laurel
Picking the right one depends on your goal. You need to consider height, speed, and light. Here is a simple guide to match the plant to the job.
For Fast Privacy Screens
If you need to block a nosy neighbor fast, go for speed. Cherry laurel and Skip laurel are your best options. They grow quickly and fill out fast.
- Plant them 3 feet apart for a solid hedge.
- Water deeply for the first two years.
- Trim the tips in early summer to encourage branching.
For Low Maintenance Borders
If you do not want to prune every month, choose a slower grower. Portuguese laurel is the winner here. It needs only one trim per year.
- Plant them 2 feet apart for a dense look.
- Mulch around the base to retain moisture.
- Feed with a balanced fertilizer in spring.
For Culinary Uses
Only the bay laurel is edible. The others are toxic if ingested. If you want to cook with your leaves, plant a bay laurel.
- Grow it in a pot to control the size.
- Harvest leaves year-round.
- Dry them for a stronger flavor.
Planting And Care Tips
Laurels are not fussy, but they do need a good start. Proper planting prevents most problems. Here is the step-by-step process.
Step 1: Prepare The Soil
Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball. Loosen the soil at the bottom. Mix in some compost to improve drainage.
Step 2: Plant At The Right Depth
The top of the root ball should be level with the ground. Planting too deep causes root rot. Planting too high dries out the roots.
Step 3: Water Thoroughly
Give the plant a deep soak right after planting. Then water once a week for the first season. Do not let the soil dry out completely.
Step 4: Prune For Shape
Do not prune hard in the first year. Let the roots establish. After that, trim in late spring or early summer.
Common Problems And Solutions
Even tough laurels have issues. Knowing what to look for saves you time. Here are the most common problems.
Yellowing Leaves
This usually means overwatering or poor drainage. Check the soil. If it is soggy, stop watering. If the plant is in a pot, consider repotting with fresh soil.
Holes In Leaves
This is often shot-hole disease. It is a fungal issue. Remove affected leaves and improve air circulation. Do not water the foliage from above.
Frost Damage
In cold zones, laurels can suffer winter burn. The leaves turn brown and crispy. Prune the damaged parts in spring. New growth will replace it.
Laurel Alternatives
If you are not sure about laurels, there are other evergreen options. These are not true laurels but serve similar purposes.
- Privet: Fast growing, but deciduous in cold zones.
- Boxwood: Slow, but very formal.
- Holly: Prickly, but great for security.
- Yew: Soft needles, very long-lived.
Each has its pros and cons. Privet grows fast but loses leaves. Boxwood is neat but slow. Holly is prickly but deer-resistant. Yew is elegant but toxic to pets.
Frequently Asked Questions
Here are quick answers to common questions about laurel trees.
What Is The Fastest Growing Laurel?
Cherry laurel is the fastest. It can add 2 to 3 feet of growth per year. Skip laurel is also very fast.
Are Laurel Roots Invasive?
Yes, cherry laurel roots can be aggressive. They spread wide and shallow. Do not plant them near foundations or paving.
Can Laurel Grow In Full Shade?
Yes, cherry laurel and spotted laurel tolerate deep shade. Portuguese laurel prefers some sun. Bay laurel needs full sun.
Is Bay Laurel The Same As Cherry Laurel?
No, they are completely different species. Bay laurel is edible. Cherry laurel is toxic. Do not confuse them.
How Far Apart Should I Plant Laurel For A Hedge?
For a dense hedge, plant 2 to 3 feet apart. For a looser screen, plant 4 to 5 feet apart. Closer spacing gives quicker results.
Final Thoughts On Laurel Selection
Choosing the right laurel is about matching the plant to your site. Consider the mature size, not the size at purchase. A small potted plant can become a 20-foot monster.
Think about the light. Some laurels thrive in shade, others need sun. Check your soil drainage. If you have heavy clay, pick a more tolerant variety like cherry laurel.
Do not forget the maintenance. Fast growers need more trimming. Slow growers need less. Be honest about how much time you want to spend.
With the right choice, a laurel hedge is a beautiful, low-stress addition to your yard. It provides year-round greenery, privacy, and a home for birds. Take your time, measure your space, and pick the one that fits. Your back will thank you when you are not pruning every weekend.
Remember to water deeply during dry spells. Mulch helps retain moisture and suppress weeds. A little care goes a long way.
If you are still unsure, visit a local nursery. They can show you the actual plants. You can see the leaf size and growth habit in person. That is the best way to avoid a costly mistake.
Laurels are a solid investment. They are long-lived and reliable. With proper selection, you will enjoy them for decades. Just make sure you pick the right one for your specific needs.
So, measure your space, check your sun exposure, and decide on your maintenance budget. Then go pick your laurel. You will be glad you did.