Philodendron lickety split earns its name from the deep, dramatic notches that develop along each mature leaf edge. If you are looking for a houseplant that looks like a piece of modern art but grows like a total weed, this is the one for you. This plant is a sport of the famous Philodendron bipinnatifidum, and it brings all the tropical vibes without needing a greenhouse.
You might have seen photos of this plant online and wondered if it was real. It is, and it is easier to care for than you might think. Let me walk you through everything you need to know about growing and keeping this stunning plant happy in your home.
What Is A Philodendron Lickety Split
This plant is a self-heading philodendron, which means it does not vine or climb. Instead, it grows upright from a central stem, forming a dense rosette of leaves. The leaves are the main attraction here. They are large, glossy, and deeply lobed, looking almost like a split-leaf philodendron but with a more delicate, feathery appearance.
The “lickety split” name comes from the way the leaf edges split and divide as they mature. Young leaves start out solid and heart-shaped, but as they grow, they develop those signature cuts. It is a fast grower, so you will see those changes quickly.
This plant is sometimes confused with the Monstera deliciosa, but they are not related. The philodendron lickety split has thinner, softer leaves and a more compact growth habit. It is a perfect choice if you want that tropical look but have limited floor space.
Light Requirements For Fast Growth
Getting the light right is the single most important thing you can do for this plant. It loves bright, indirect light. Think of the light you get near an east-facing window or a few feet away from a south or west-facing window.
If you give it too much direct sun, the leaves will burn and turn yellow. If you give it too little light, the growth will slow down, and the new leaves might come in smaller and with fewer splits. You want that sweet spot where the plant is happy but not scorched.
- Place it near a bright window but out of direct afternoon sun.
- Use sheer curtains to filter harsh light if needed.
- Rotate the pot every week to encourage even growth.
- If you have low light, consider a grow light to supplement.
I have seen these plants thrive in rooms that get morning sun only. They are forgiving, but they will reward you with bigger leaves if you give them more light. Just remember, no direct sun, or you will have crispy edges.
Watering Your Philodendron Lickety Split
This plant likes to stay evenly moist but not soggy. Overwatering is the most common way to kill it, so you need to be careful. The best approach is to check the top inch of soil before you water. If it feels dry, go ahead and water thoroughly. If it is still damp, wait a day or two.
When you do water, water until it runs out of the drainage holes. This ensures the roots get a good drink and flushes out any built-up salts. Empty the saucer after watering so the plant is not sitting in standing water.
During the winter months, you will need to water less frequently. The plant goes into a slower growth phase, and the soil takes longer to dry out. Always check the soil first, and never let the plant sit in a wet mess.
Signs Of Overwatering Vs Underwatering
It is easy to get confused, so here is a quick breakdown of what to look for.
- Yellow leaves that are mushy usually mean too much water.
- Brown, crispy leaf edges often mean too little water or low humidity.
- Drooping leaves can mean either, so check the soil moisture first.
- If the stem feels soft at the base, you have root rot.
If you notice any of these issues, adjust your watering schedule. This plant bounces back quickly if you catch the problem early. It is much better to underwater than to overwater, as the roots are prone to rot.
Soil And Potting Mix
You need a chunky, well-draining potting mix for this plant. A standard houseplant mix is okay, but it is better to add some amendments. You want a mix that holds some moisture but also allows oxygen to reach the roots.
A good recipe is one part regular potting soil, one part perlite, and one part orchid bark. This creates air pockets and prevents the soil from compacting. It also helps with drainage, which is critical for preventing root rot.
When you repot, choose a pot that is only 1-2 inches larger than the current one. This plant likes to be slightly root-bound, so do not jump to a huge pot. Repotting every 1-2 years in the spring is usually enough.
When To Repot
You will know it is time to repot when you see roots coming out of the drainage holes. You might also notice that the soil dries out very quickly after watering. This is a sign that the roots have filled the pot and need more space.
Spring is the best time to repot, as the plant is entering its active growth phase. Gently loosen the roots and place it in the new pot with fresh mix. Water it well and let it settle in.
Do not fertilize immediately after repotting. The fresh soil has enough nutrients, and you do not want to burn the roots. Wait at least a month before you start feeding again.
Temperature And Humidity Needs
This philodendron is a tropical plant, so it likes warmth and humidity. It thrives in temperatures between 65°F and 80°F (18°C to 27°C). Avoid placing it near drafty windows, air conditioners, or heating vents, as sudden temperature changes can stress it out.
Humidity is not a dealbreaker, but it helps. Average household humidity is usually fine, but if you want bigger, healthier leaves, you can increase it. A humidifier is the easiest way to do this, but you can also group plants together or use a pebble tray.
- Keep it away from cold drafts in the winter.
- Avoid placing it near radiators or heat vents.
- Mist the leaves occasionally, but do not rely on misting alone.
- Consider a small humidifier if your home is very dry.
If the air is too dry, you might see brown tips on the leaves. This is not a huge deal, but it can be unsightly. Trimming the brown edges with clean scissors will keep the plant looking tidy.
Fertilizing For Lush Foliage
To get those massive, deeply split leaves, you need to feed your plant regularly during the growing season. Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength. You can do this every 4-6 weeks from spring through early fall.
Do not fertilize in the winter when the plant is resting. Over-fertilizing can cause salt buildup in the soil, which can burn the roots. If you see white crust on the top of the soil, you are feeding too much.
I prefer to use a fertilizer with a ratio like 20-20-20. This gives the plant a good balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Nitrogen is especially important for leaf growth, so make sure it is not too low.
Organic Options
If you prefer to go organic, you can use worm castings or compost. These are gentle and release nutrients slowly. You can top-dress the soil with worm castings in the spring, and it will feed the plant for months.
Liquid seaweed or fish emulsion are also great options. They are mild and less likely to burn the roots. Just be aware that fish emulsion can smell a bit, so it is best used outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.
Whatever you choose, remember to water the plant before fertilizing. Applying fertilizer to dry soil can shock the roots. A little water first makes the nutrients easier to absorb.
Pruning And Maintenance
This plant does not need much pruning, but you should remove any yellow or damaged leaves as they appear. This keeps the plant looking clean and directs energy to healthy growth. Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears to make a clean cut at the base of the stem.
You can also prune to control the size of the plant. If it gets too large for your space, you can cut back the outer leaves. The plant will fill in from the center, so do not worry about ruining the shape.
Wiping the leaves with a damp cloth every few weeks is a good idea. Dust can block light and make the plant look dull. This also helps prevent pests, as they like to hide in dusty foliage.
Cleaning The Leaves
Use a soft, damp cloth to gently wipe the top and bottom of each leaf. You can also use a mild soapy water solution if you see pests. Just make sure to rinse the leaves with plain water afterward to remove any soap residue.
Do not use leaf shine products, as they can clog the pores of the leaves. The plant does not need them, and they can actually do more harm than good. A simple wipe down is all you need.
If you notice the leaf tips are turning brown, you can trim them with scissors. Cut at an angle to mimic the natural shape of the leaf. This is purely cosmetic, but it makes the plant look healthier.
Common Pests And Problems
Like most houseplants, the philodendron lickety split can attract pests. The most common ones are spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. You should inspect your plant regularly, especially the undersides of the leaves, to catch any infestations early.
Spider mites are tiny and leave fine webbing. Mealybugs look like small white cottony spots. Scale looks like brown bumps on the stems and leaves. All of these can be treated with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
- Isolate the plant immediately if you see pests.
- Spray with insecticidal soap every 5-7 days until gone.
- Wipe down the leaves to remove any visible bugs.
- Check nearby plants to make sure they are not infested too.
Root rot is another common issue, but it is usually caused by overwatering. If you catch it early, you can repot the plant in fresh, dry soil and cut away any mushy roots. If the rot is severe, you may need to take cuttings to propagate a new plant.
How To Propagate Philodendron Lickety Split
Propagation is a bit tricky with this plant because it does not have stems that are easy to cut. The best way is by division. When you repot, you can separate the plant into smaller clumps, each with its own root system.
Here is how to do it step by step:
- Take the plant out of its pot and gently shake off the soil.
- Look for natural divisions in the root ball where the stems separate.
- Use a clean, sharp knife to cut through the roots if needed.
- Make sure each division has at least one stem and a good amount of roots.
- Pot each division in its own container with fresh, well-draining mix.
- Water thoroughly and place in bright, indirect light.
It is also possible to propagate from stem cuttings, but it is less reliable. You would need a piece of the stem with an aerial root, which is not common on this plant. Division is the safest and most effective method.
New divisions may take a few weeks to settle in. Do not be alarmed if they droop a little at first. Keep the soil slightly moist and give them time to establish new roots.
Philodendron Lickety Split Vs Monstera
People often confuse these two plants, but they are quite different. The Monstera deliciosa has large, holey leaves with fenestrations, while the philodendron lickety split has deeply lobed, feathery leaves without holes. The Monstera is a climber, while this philodendron is self-heading.
In terms of care, they are similar, but the philodendron is generally easier to manage indoors. It stays more compact and does not need a moss pole. The Monstera can get huge and take over a room, while this plant stays more manageable.
If you want the tropical look without the climbing habit, the philodendron lickety split is the better choice. It gives you that dramatic foliage but in a neat, tidy package.
Where To Buy And What To Look For
This plant has become more popular, so you can find it at many nurseries and online plant shops. When you buy, look for a plant with healthy, glossy leaves and no signs of pests. Check the undersides of the leaves and the soil for any issues.
Prices can vary depending on the size and where you buy. Smaller starter plants are usually cheaper, while larger, mature specimens with deep splits will cost more. It is worth paying a bit extra for a healthy plant, as it will grow fast.
If you buy online, check the reviews of the seller. Make sure they pack the plant well to avoid damage during shipping. It is also a good idea to quarantine the plant for a week or two to make sure it does not bring any pests into your home.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the philodendron lickety split rare?
It used to be quite rare, but it has become more widely available in recent years. You can find it at specialty nurseries and online, though it might still be a bit pricey compared to common houseplants.
How big does a philodendron lickety split get?
Indoors, it can reach about 3-4 feet tall and wide. The leaves can grow up to 18 inches long. With optimal conditions, it can get even larger, but it stays manageable for most homes.
Is this plant toxic to pets?
Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals, which are toxic to cats and dogs if ingested. Keep it out of reach of curious pets, and contact your vet if you suspect they have eaten any part of it.
Why are the leaves of my plant not splitting?
Young leaves naturally start out solid. If mature leaves are not splitting, it is usually a sign of insufficient light. Move the plant to a brighter spot, and the new leaves should develop those characteristic notches.
Can I grow this plant outdoors?
Yes, you can grow it outdoors in USDA zones 9-11. It likes partial shade and well-draining soil. If you live in a colder climate, you can move it outside for the summer and bring it in before temperatures drop.
Final Thoughts On This Stunning Plant
The philodendron lickety split is a rewarding plant that is not too demanding. Give it the right light, water it properly, and it will reward you with beautiful, architectural foliage. It is a great conversation starter and a standout piece in any plant collection.
If you are looking for a plant that is easy to grow but looks like a rare tropical specimen, this is the one. It grows fast, so you will see progress quickly. Just be patient with the young leaves, and they will develop those gorgeous splits in no time.
I hope this guide helps you grow a thriving philodendron lickety split. With a little attention, you will have a lush, healthy plant that brings a touch of the jungle into your living room. Happy growing, and enjoy watching those leaves unfurl.