Planting arborvitae in staggered rows creates a dense privacy screen, but spacing them too close causes lower branches to die back from lack of sunlight. When you start landscaping with arborvitae, the first thing to understand is that these evergreens are not a one-size-fits-all plant. You have to match the variety to your soil, your sun exposure, and the final height you actually want.
Most people buy arborvitae because they want a living fence. They want to block out the neighbors, reduce road noise, or hide an ugly shed. But if you plant them wrong, you will end up with brown patches, bare trunks, or trees that split apart in the first winter storm. This guide walks you through the entire process, from choosing the right cultivar to maintaining it for decades.
Why Arborvitae Works For Privacy Screens
Arborvitae is the go-to plant for privacy because it is fast-growing, evergreen, and relatively low-maintenance. Unlike a wooden fence, it does not rot, fade, or need painting. Unlike bamboo, it does not spread aggressively into your lawn or your neighbor’s yard.
There are two main types you will see in nurseries: the tall, narrow “Green Giant” and the shorter, rounder “Emerald Green.” The Green Giant can add three feet of growth per year and reach 40 feet tall. The Emerald Green is slower, topping out around 12 to 14 feet, but it stays a neat, narrow column.
Your choice depends on your goal. If you need a tall windbreak, go with Green Giant. If you want a low hedge along a walkway, Emerald Green is better. There are also dwarf varieties like “Hetz Midget” that stay under three feet tall, perfect for foundation plantings.
Landscaping With Arborvitae
This section covers the core design principles you need to know. The most common mistake is treating arborvitae like a single specimen plant. In reality, they look best when grouped in odd numbers or planted in a straight line. A single arborvitae standing alone in the middle of a lawn looks like a green telephone pole. It does not add structure or interest.
Instead, think of arborvitae as a building material. You are constructing a wall, not planting a tree. This means you need to plan the length, height, and thickness of that wall before you dig any holes.
Spacing Rules For A Dense Hedge
Spacing is where most DIY landscapers fail. If you plant Emerald Green arborvitae six feet apart, you will have gaps for years. If you plant them two feet apart, they will compete for water and light, and the lower branches will turn brown and drop off.
Here is a simple rule of thumb:
- Emerald Green: Plant 3 to 4 feet apart for a solid hedge
- Green Giant: Plant 6 to 8 feet apart for a solid screen
- Dwarf varieties: Plant 2 to 3 feet apart for a low border
If you want a staggered double row, offset the second row by half the spacing distance. This creates a thicker screen and hides any gaps. But remember, a double row needs more water and more room for roots. Do not crowd them.
Sunlight And Soil Requirements
Arborvitae are not picky about soil pH, but they hate wet feet. If your yard has heavy clay that holds water, you need to amend the soil with compost or plant on a slight mound. Standing water for more than 24 hours will cause root rot, which is almost always fatal.
Sunlight is another critical factor. Arborvitae need at least six hours of direct sun per day to stay full and green. If you plant them in full shade, they will become thin and leggy. The lower branches will drop needles, leaving you with a bare trunk and a tuft of green at the top.
If you have a shady yard, consider a different plant like yew or boxwood. Do not try to force arborvitae to grow where they do not belong.
Design Ideas For Different Yard Areas
Arborvitae are not just for the back fence line. You can use them to define entryways, hide air conditioning units, or create a green backdrop for flower beds.
For a formal look, plant a row of Emerald Green along a driveway. The vertical lines draw the eye forward and create a sense of arrival. For a more natural look, mix arborvitae with ornamental grasses and flowering shrubs. The contrast of textures makes the landscape feel layered and rich.
One clever trick is to plant a single row of arborvitae at the corner of your house to soften the hard architectural lines. This works especially well with light-colored siding, as the dark green provides a strong visual anchor.
Step-By-Step Planting Guide
Planting arborvitae is not difficult, but you have to do it right. The number one cause of death in the first year is planting too deep. The root ball needs to sit at or slightly above the surrounding soil level. If you bury the trunk, it will suffocate and die within six months.
Follow these steps for success:
- Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper.
- Remove the plant from the container or burlap. If it is balled and burlapped, cut the twine and fold the burlap down.
- Place the root ball in the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with the ground.
- Backfill with the native soil you dug out. Do not add fertilizer at planting time.
- Water thoroughly until the soil is saturated. This removes air pockets.
- Add a 2-inch layer of mulch around the base, but keep it away from the trunk.
Watering is the most important part of the first year. Arborvitae have shallow root systems. They need consistent moisture, especially during hot, dry spells. Plan to water deeply once a week, and twice a week if the temperature is above 85 degrees.
When To Plant Arborvitae
The best time to plant is in early fall or early spring. This gives the roots time to establish before the stress of summer heat or winter frost. Avoid planting in the middle of summer unless you are prepared to water every day.
If you live in a cold climate, plant in early spring so the tree has a full growing season to settle in before winter. If you live in a mild climate, fall planting is ideal because the cool weather reduces water stress.
Maintenance And Pruning Tips
Arborvitae are low-maintenance, but they are not no-maintenance. You need to check them for pests, disease, and winter damage. The most common pest is the bagworm, which can defoliate a tree in a single season. Look for small, cone-shaped bags hanging from the branches. If you see them, pick them off and dispose of them in the trash, not the compost pile.
Pruning is simple but must be done correctly. Never cut back into bare wood, because arborvitae do not regrow from old wood. Only trim the green tips. This means you need to prune lightly and often, rather than waiting years and then hacking them back.
Here is a quick maintenance schedule:
- Spring: Check for winter damage. Remove any broken or dead branches.
- Summer: Lightly shear the tips to maintain shape. Do not cut more than 2 inches.
- Fall: Water deeply before the ground freezes. This prevents winter burn.
- Winter: Knock heavy snow off the branches to prevent bending or breaking.
Common Problems And Fixes
Brown tips are the most common complaint. This is usually caused by drought, wind, or salt damage. If the tips are brown but the rest of the tree is green, it is likely winter burn. This happens when the roots are frozen but the sun is warming the needles, causing them to lose moisture faster than they can absorb it.
To prevent winter burn, water deeply in the fall and consider wrapping the tree in burlap if it is in an exposed location. Do not use plastic wrap, as it traps heat and can cook the plant.
If you see yellowing needles in the summer, check for spider mites. These tiny pests are hard to see with the naked eye, but they leave a fine webbing on the branches. A strong blast of water from the hose can knock them off. For severe infestations, use an insecticidal soap.
Frequently Asked Questions
Here are some common questions people have about growing these evergreens in their yard.
How far from the fence should I plant arborvitae?
Plant at least 3 feet away from a fence. This gives the roots room to spread and allows air to circulate around the back of the tree. If you plant too close, the fence will block airflow and cause the inner needles to drop.
Can I keep arborvitae short by pruning?
You can keep them shorter, but you have to start early. If you wait until the tree is 20 feet tall and try to cut it down to 8 feet, you will be cutting into bare wood, and the tree will not regrow. Prune the top every year to maintain the height you want.
Why are my arborvitae turning brown in the middle?
This is normal to some degree. The inner needles naturally shed as the tree grows. But if the browning is excessive, it means the tree is not getting enough light or water. Check your spacing and your watering schedule.
Do arborvitae need fertilizer?
Not usually. They are light feeders. If your soil is very poor, you can apply a slow-release fertilizer in early spring. But too much nitrogen will cause weak, fast growth that is more susceptible to wind damage.
How long do arborvitae live?
With proper care, they can live 50 to 100 years. The key is good soil drainage and consistent watering in the first few years. Once established, they are very hardy and can survive harsh conditions.
Final Thoughts On Using Arborvitae In Your Landscape
Arborvitae are a reliable, attractive choice for privacy and structure. They are not the most exciting plant in the nursery, but they do their job well. The key is to plan ahead, choose the right variety, and give them the space and water they need.
Remember that landscaping with arborvitae is a long-term investment. You are not planting for today; you are planting for five, ten, or twenty years down the road. Take the time to do it right, and you will be rewarded with a lush, green screen that adds value to your home and peace to your yard.
Start with a simple row along the property line. See how they do in your soil and climate. Once you get the hang of it, you can expand to other areas of the landscape. The worst thing you can do is rush the process and plant them too close together. Give them room, give them water, and they will reward you for decades.
If you are unsure about your soil drainage, dig a test hole and fill it with water. If it does not drain within 24 hours, you need to amend the soil or choose a different location. This simple test can save you a lot of money and heartache later on.
One last tip: do not plant arborvitae under large deciduous trees. The shade and root competition will stress them out. They prefer open, sunny locations where they can stretch their branches and show off their dense, green foliage.
With a little planning and consistent care, your arborvitae hedge will become the envy of the neighborhood. It will provide privacy, reduce noise, and create a beautiful backdrop for the rest of your garden. So grab your shovel, pick out your plants, and get started. Your future self will thank you.