Yukon Gold potatoes need their seed pieces to sit in cool, well-drained soil for about two weeks before the first green shoots emerge. If you are wondering how to plant yukon gold potatoes, the process is simpler than you might think, and the reward of digging up those buttery, golden tubers is well worth the effort. This guide will walk you through every step, from choosing the right seed potatoes to harvesting your crop at the perfect time.
You don’t need a massive farm to grow these. A sunny patch in your backyard, a raised bed, or even a large container will work just fine. The key is to understand what this specific variety needs to thrive.
Why Choose Yukon Gold Potatoes
Before we get into the dirt, let’s talk about why this variety is a favorite. Yukon Golds are known for their thin, golden skin and their creamy, yellow flesh. They are the ultimate all-purpose potato, great for boiling, mashing, roasting, and frying.
They have a naturally buttery flavor that doesn’t need much help in the kitchen. Plus, they mature in the mid-season, so you aren’t waiting the entire summer for a harvest.
How To Plant Yukon Gold Potatoes
This is the core of the process. Getting the timing and the soil right is crucial for a heavy yield. Let’s break down the entire procedure so you can get those spuds in the ground with confidence.
Selecting The Right Seed Potatoes
You cannot just plant the potatoes you bought at the grocery store. Those are often treated with a sprout inhibitor to keep them from going bad on the shelf. You need certified seed potatoes from a garden center or a reputable online supplier.
- Certified seed potatoes are guaranteed to be disease-free.
- They are grown specifically for planting, not eating.
- Look for firm tubers that are about the size of a chicken egg.
- If they are larger, you can cut them, but we will get to that in a minute.
Chitting Or Pre-Sprouting Your Potatoes
This is a step many gardeners skip, but it gives you a head start. Chitting means letting your seed potatoes sprout before you plant them. It shortens the time they spend in the ground.
About four weeks before your last frost date, take your seed potatoes out of storage. Place them in an egg carton or a shallow tray with the “eyes” facing up. The eyes are the little dimples on the surface.
Put them in a cool, bright room, but not in direct sunlight. You are looking for short, sturdy, green sprouts. If the sprouts get long and pale, they are reaching for light and are too weak.
Cutting And Curing Seed Pieces
If your seed potatoes are larger than a hen’s egg, you should cut them. Each piece needs at least two or three eyes to grow successfully. Cut the potato into chunks, making sure each chunk has those eyes.
After cutting, let the pieces “cure” for a couple of days. Lay them out in a single layer at room temperature. This allows the cut surface to dry and form a callus. This callus prevents the seed piece from rotting in the wet soil.
If you plant them right after cutting, they might absorb too much water and rot before they can sprout. Curing is a simple step that prevents a lot of heartache later on.
Finding The Perfect Planting Time
Yukon Golds are not frost-hardy. The plants will die if they get hit by a hard freeze. However, the seed pieces can tolerate cool soil.
The ideal soil temperature is around 45°F to 50°F. You can plant them about two to three weeks before your last expected frost date. The soil should be workable, meaning it isn’t muddy or waterlogged.
If the soil is too cold and wet, the seed pieces will just sit there and rot. It is better to wait a little longer than to plant too early. Check the weather forecast and aim for a dry spell.
Preparing The Soil Bed
Potatoes prefer loose, well-drained soil with a slightly acidic pH, ideally between 5.0 and 6.0. They do not like heavy clay or rocky soil, as this will cause the tubers to deform.
Work the soil to a depth of about 10 to 12 inches. Remove any large rocks, roots, or clumps of grass. You want a fine, crumbly texture.
Mix in a generous amount of compost or well-rotted manure. This adds nutrients and improves drainage. Avoid fresh manure, as it can burn the plants and introduce diseases. A balanced organic fertilizer worked into the soil at planting time is also a good idea.
The Planting Process Step-By-Step
Now for the main event. Here is the exact method for getting your seed pieces into the ground.
- Dig The Trenches: Use a hoe to dig a trench that is about 4 to 6 inches deep. If you are planting multiple rows, space the trenches about 30 inches apart. This gives the plants room to grow and allows you to mound soil up later.
- Place The Seed Pieces: Put your cured seed pieces in the trench, with the eyes facing up. Space them about 12 inches apart. If you space them closer, you will get smaller potatoes. If you space them further apart, you will get fewer, but larger, potatoes.
- Cover With Soil: Gently cover the seed pieces with the soil you removed. Do not pack it down. Just lightly fill the trench back in.
- Water In: Give the area a good watering. The soil should be moist, but not soaking wet. This helps the soil settle around the seed pieces.
Watering And Mulching
Consistent moisture is key, especially once the plants start flowering. This is when the tubers are forming. Inconsistent watering can lead to knobby or misshapen potatoes.
Aim to provide about 1 to 2 inches of water per week. If you get regular rain, you might not need to water at all. If it is dry, water deeply once or twice a week rather than a little bit every day.
After you plant, you can add a layer of straw or shredded leaves over the trench. This mulch helps retain moisture, suppresses weeds, and keeps the soil cool. It also makes harvesting easier.
Hilling The Plants
This is a critical step that many beginners miss. As the potato plants grow, they need to be “hilled.” This means mounding soil up around the base of the stems.
Potatoes grow from the stem, not the roots. If the stems are exposed to sunlight, they will turn green and produce solanine, which is toxic. Hilling keeps the developing tubers in the dark.
When the plants are about 6 to 8 inches tall, use a hoe to pull soil from between the rows up around the stems. Cover about half of the plant. You will need to do this again in about three weeks, when the plants are another 6 inches taller.
This process also loosens the soil, making it easier for the tubers to expand. It is one of the most important things you can do for a good harvest.
Fertilizing For A Better Yield
Potatoes are heavy feeders. If you prepared the soil well with compost, you might not need much extra fertilizer. However, a boost of phosphorus and potassium is beneficial.
About a month after planting, you can side-dress the plants with a balanced organic fertilizer. Scratch it into the soil around the plants, being careful not to disturb the roots. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as these will give you huge green tops but very few potatoes.
You can also use a liquid seaweed or fish emulsion fertilizer every couple of weeks during the growing season. This provides trace minerals that help the plants stay healthy.
Dealing With Pests And Diseases
Yukon Golds are susceptible to a few common issues. The most common pest is the Colorado potato beetle. These yellow and black striped beetles can defoliate a plant quickly.
Check the undersides of the leaves regularly. If you see orange egg clusters, wipe them off. If you see larvae or beetles, you can hand-pick them and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. Neem oil is also an effective organic treatment.
Scab is a common disease that causes rough, corky patches on the skin. It is caused by a bacteria that thrives in dry, alkaline soil. Keeping the soil consistently moist and maintaining a slightly acidic pH will help prevent it.
Another issue is blight, which causes dark spots on the leaves and stems. It is a fungal disease that spreads in wet, humid conditions. To prevent it, water at the base of the plant, not overhead, and ensure good air circulation.
When To Harvest Yukon Gold Potatoes
You can harvest Yukon Golds at two different stages. For “new” potatoes, you can start harvesting about two to three weeks after the plants finish flowering. These are small, tender, and have very thin skins. They are perfect for boiling.
For mature, storage potatoes, wait until the plants have died back completely. The foliage will turn yellow and then brown, and the stems will flop over. This usually happens about 70 to 90 days after planting.
Once the tops are dead, wait another two weeks before harvesting. This allows the skins to set and firm up, which makes them last longer in storage.
How To Harvest And Cure
Use a garden fork to gently loosen the soil around the plant. Be careful not to stab the potatoes. Dig a few inches away from the stem and lift the soil up.
Pull the plant up by the stems and shake off the loose soil. Gather the potatoes by hand, being careful not to bruise them. Discard any that are green, damaged, or have holes from pests.
To cure them for storage, place them in a dark, cool, and well-ventilated area for about two weeks. This allows the skins to thicken and any minor cuts to heal. Do not wash them before curing.
After curing, brush off the dry soil and store them in a cool, dark place like a basement or a pantry. They will keep for several months if stored properly.
Growing In Containers
If you don’t have garden space, you can easily grow Yukon Golds in containers. Use a large pot or a grow bag that is at least 15 gallons in size. Make sure it has drainage holes.
Fill the bottom of the container with about 6 inches of potting mix. Place your seed pieces on top and cover them with another 4 inches of soil. As the plants grow, keep adding more soil or mulch to the container, “hilling” them up.
Container-grown potatoes need more frequent watering than those in the ground. Check the soil moisture daily, especially during hot weather. Harvesting is easy—just dump the whole container out and sift through the soil.
Common Mistakes To Avoid
Even experienced gardeners make errors. Here are a few things to watch out for to ensure you get the best possible crop.
- Planting Too Early: Cold, wet soil is the enemy. It causes rot.
- Using Grocery Store Potatoes: They are often treated to prevent sprouting.
- Skipping The Curing Step: Cutting and planting immediately invites rot.
- Not Hilling: Exposed tubers turn green and become bitter.
- Inconsistent Watering: This leads to cracked or misshapen potatoes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I plant a whole Yukon Gold potato?
Yes, you can plant a small whole potato. If it is larger than a hen’s egg, it is better to cut it into pieces with at least two eyes each. Curing the cut pieces is essential to prevent rotting.
How long does it take for Yukon Gold potatoes to grow?
They are a mid-season variety. You can harvest new potatoes about 60 days after planting. For mature potatoes, wait until the plants die back, which is usually 70 to 90 days after planting.
Do Yukon Gold potatoes need full sun?
Yes, they need at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. More sun generally means a larger harvest. They will still grow in partial shade, but the yield will be smaller.
Can I grow Yukon Gold potatoes in a bag?
Absolutely. Grow bags are a great option. Use a large bag, at least 15 gallons, and follow the same hilling process by adding soil as the plants grow. Just be diligent about watering.
Why are my Yukon Gold potatoes green?
Green skin is caused by exposure to sunlight. This happens when the tubers are not properly hilled or are left exposed. Green parts contain solanine, which is toxic, so cut them off before eating.
Growing your own Yukon Gold potatoes is a rewarding experience. The flavor of a freshly dug potato is unmatched by anything you find in a store. With a little patience and the right technique, you will be enjoying your own buttery spuds in no time. Just remeber to keep the soil moist and the stems covered, and you are on your way to a bountiful harvest.