These shield-shaped pests gather on tomato stems and fruit, leaving behind brown scars that signal their feeding activity. If you have been wondering how to get rid of leaf footed bugs on tomatoes, you have come to the right place. These insects can ruin a whole harvest if you don’t act quickly, but the good news is that you can control them with a few simple strategies.
Leaf footed bugs are often confused with stink bugs, but they have a distinct flattened hind leg that looks like a leaf. They pierce the skin of your tomatoes and suck out the juices. This leaves behind yellow or white spots that turn into hard, brown scars. The fruit is still edible if you cut out the damage, but the texture is often corky and unappealing.
You need a plan that covers prevention, physical removal, and organic sprays. Let’s break down exactly what works in a home garden setting. We will look at their life cycle first, because timing is everything when you are fighting these bugs.
Understanding The Enemy
Leaf footed bugs go through several stages. They start as clusters of reddish-brown eggs laid in a straight line on stems and leaves. The nymphs are bright red or orange with black legs, and they are very active. As they grow, they turn darker and develop the leaf-like shape on their back legs.
Adult bugs are about 0.75 inches long and have a narrow body. They are strong fliers, which makes them hard to contain. They are most active in the heat of the summer, which is also when your tomatoes are ripening. This is why you often see them on the fruit itself.
They do not just feed on tomatoes. They also attack peppers, eggplants, and okra. If you have a diverse garden, you need to check all your plants, not just the tomatoes. They tend to hide under leaves and near the base of the plant during the hottest part of the day.
How To Get Rid Of Leaf Footed Bugs On Tomatoes
This is the core of your battle plan. You have to be consistent and thorough. A single pass with a spray might kill the adults, but the eggs will hatch a week later. You need to repeat your efforts every few days to break the cycle.
Hand Picking And Physical Removal
This is the most effective method for a small garden. It is also the most environmentally friendly. You do not need any chemicals, just a bucket of soapy water and a pair of gloves.
- Go out early in the morning when the bugs are sluggish and cold.
- Look under the leaves and along the stems for adults and nymphs.
- Pick them off the plant and drop them into the soapy water.
- Check the underside of leaves for the reddish-brown egg clusters.
- Scrape the eggs off with your fingernail or a piece of tape.
- Repeat this every single day for two weeks.
You might be tempted to squish them, but they have a strong odor. The soapy water prevents them from flying away and drowns them quickly. This method works best if you stay on top of it. If you miss a few days, the population can explode.
You can also use a handheld vacuum to suck them off the plants. This is a great trick if you have a lot of plants or if you are squeamish about touching bugs. Just empty the vacuum bag into a trash bag and seal it tight. Make sure you get the nymphs too, as they are often hiding in the leaf axils.
Using Row Covers For Prevention
Prevention is better than cure. If you have had problems with leaf footed bugs before, you should use floating row covers. These are lightweight fabrics that let in light and water but keep bugs out.
- Install the row covers right after you transplant your tomatoes.
- Make sure the edges are buried in the soil so bugs cannot crawl under.
- Remove the covers when the flowers start to bloom so bees can pollinate.
- If you leave them on too long, you will get poor fruit set.
This method works best for early-season protection. Once the covers come off, you will need to switch to other control methods. The row covers also protect against other pests like tomato hornworms and aphids, so they are a good investment.
Another prevention tactic is to clean up your garden in the fall. Leaf footed bugs overwinter in leaf litter and under debris. If you remove these hiding spots, you will have fewer bugs in the spring. Till the soil lightly to expose any hiding bugs to the cold.
Organic Sprays And Natural Predators
When hand picking is not enough, you can turn to sprays. You want to use something that is safe for your plants and the environment. Chemical pesticides can kill beneficial insects, so start with the gentler options first.
Neem oil is a great choice. It is a natural oil that disrupts the bug’s feeding and molting. You need to spray it directly on the bugs and the undersides of the leaves. It works best on the young nymphs, so you need to apply it early in the season.
Insecticidal soap is another option. It works by breaking down the bug’s outer shell, causing it to dehydrate. You must spray it directly on the bug for it to work. It has no residual effect, so you will need to reapply after rain or heavy dew.
Pyrethrin sprays are made from chrysanthemum flowers. They are more potent than neem oil and work fast. They will kill the bugs on contact, but they also break down quickly in sunlight. Use them in the evening to avoid harming bees.
You can also encourage natural predators. Birds, spiders, and praying mantises all eat leaf footed bugs. You can attract them by planting native flowers and providing a water source. Avoid using broad-spectrum pesticides that kill these helpful creatures.
Diatomaceous Earth As A Barrier
Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a fine powder made from fossilized algae. It is sharp at a microscopic level and cuts the bug’s exoskeleton. This causes them to dehydrate and die. It is a mechanical killer, so bugs cannot build a resistance to it.
- Dust the powder around the base of your tomato plants.
- Also dust the leaves, but only a light coat.
- Reapply after it rains or gets wet.
- Wear a mask when applying it so you don’t inhale the dust.
DE is most effective against the nymphs that crawl on the ground. The adults can fly, so they might land on the fruit and avoid the powder. It is a good tool to have in your arsenal, but it is not a standalone solution.
You should use food-grade DE, not the kind used in swimming pools. The pool grade has different chemicals that are harmful to you and your pets. Food-grade is safe to use around the garden and will not harm your soil.
Monitoring And Timing Your Control Efforts
You need to check your plants at least twice a week. Look for the first signs of damage, which are small white or yellow dots on the fruit. This is where the bug has inserted its mouthpart. If you see this, start your control methods immediately.
The best time to spray is in the early morning or late evening. This is when the bugs are less active and the spray has time to dry. Spraying in the heat of the day can cause the spray to evaporate too quickly. It can also burn the leaves if you use oil-based sprays.
You should also inspect the flowers. Leaf footed bugs will feed on the flower buds, which can cause the blossoms to drop. If you lose the blossoms, you lose the fruit. This is a hidden damage that many gardeners miss.
Keep a record of when you see the bugs. This will help you predict when they will appear next year. If you know they come in July, you can have your row covers ready or start your sprays in late June. This proactive approach saves you a lot of stress.
Dealing With A Severe Infestation
If you have a large garden or the bugs have gotten out of control, you might need to use a stronger chemical. Look for a pesticide that lists leaf footed bugs on the label. Products containing carbaryl (Sevin) are effective, but they are also toxic to bees.
Use these chemicals as a last resort. Follow the label instructions exactly. Do not spray on windy days, and do not spray when bees are active. You should also wait the required number of days before harvesting your tomatoes. This is usually listed on the label.
Another option is to use a trap crop. Plant a few sunflowers or okra plants away from your tomatoes. The bugs will prefer these plants and gather there. You can then treat the trap crop with a spray or hand pick the bugs off. This keeps the main crop safe.
You can also use a sticky barrier around the base of the plants. Apply a band of petroleum jelly or a sticky product like Tanglefoot to a piece of cardboard. Wrap it around the stem. This will trap the nymphs as they crawl up from the ground.
Repairing The Damage To Your Tomatoes
Once the bugs are gone, you will still have some damaged fruit. The brown scars are not harmful, but they are not pretty. You can cut out the damaged parts and use the rest of the tomato. The flavor is usually unaffected.
If the damage is extensive, the fruit might rot. Remove any damaged fruit from the plant to prevent disease. Do not put them in your compost pile, as the eggs might survive. Throw them in the trash or bury them deep in the ground.
You can also pick tomatoes early and let them ripen indoors. This protects them from the bugs while they are still on the vine. Place them in a paper bag with a banana to speed up the ripening process. This is a good trick for the end of the season.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are Leaf Footed Bugs The Same As Stink Bugs?
No, they are different species, but they look similar. Leaf footed bugs have a flattened hind leg that looks like a leaf. Stink bugs have a rounded body and a different shape. Both can damage tomatoes, but the control methods are the same.
Can I eat tomatoes that have been bitten by leaf footed bugs?
Yes, you can. The brown scars are just cosmetic damage. Cut out the affected area and eat the rest. The tomato is safe to eat and will taste fine. Just make sure there are no bugs hiding inside the fruit.
What is the fastest way to kill leaf footed bugs?
The fastest way is to use a pyrethrin-based spray. It kills them on contact. You need to spray directly on the bugs. Hand picking is also fast, but it takes more time and effort. For a large infestation, a spray is more efficient.
Do leaf footed bugs live in the soil?
They do not live in the soil, but they overwinter in leaf litter and debris on the soil surface. The nymphs might hide in the soil near the base of the plant during the day. Cleaning up your garden in the fall helps reduce their numbers.
Will soapy water kill leaf footed bugs?
Yes, if you drop them into a bucket of soapy water, they will drown. The soap breaks the surface tension of the water, so they sink and die. This is a great method for hand picking. You can also spray them with insecticidal soap, but it must make direct contact.
Final Thoughts On Protecting Your Harvest
Getting rid of leaf footed bugs takes patience and consistency. You cannot just spray once and expect them to be gone. You need to combine several methods and stay vigilant. Check your plants often and act at the first sign of trouble.
Start with the non-toxic methods like hand picking and row covers. If those fail, move on to organic sprays. Only use harsh chemicals as a last resort. This protects your garden’s ecosystem and keeps your tomatoes healthy.
Remember that a few damaged tomatoes are not the end of the world. You can still salvage most of your harvest if you act quickly. The key is to break the bug’s life cycle. Kill the adults, remove the eggs, and you will win the battle.
You now have a full toolkit to tackle this problem. Go out to your garden and look at your plants. If you see those shield-shaped bugs, you know exactly what to do. Stay consistent, and you will have a bountiful harvest of beautiful, unblemished tomatoes. Your hard work will pay off when you slice into that first perfect, red fruit. The effort you put in now will save you from disappointment later in the season. Good luck with your garden, and do not let these pests ruin your hard work.