Creeping jenny’s shallow roots make hand-pulling effective, but persistence matters because fragments regrow. If you’re searching for how to get rid of creeping jenny, you likely already know this ground cover can be a relentless invader in lawns and garden beds. This guide breaks down every practical method, from simple manual removal to targeted chemical control, so you can reclaim your yard for good.
Before you start, identify the plant correctly. Creeping jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) has small, round, opposite leaves on trailing stems. It thrives in moist, shady spots but tolerates sun. Knowing your enemy helps you pick the right strategy.
How To Get Rid Of Creeping Jenny
This section covers the core strategies. You will learn the best times to act, the tools you need, and the step-by-step process for each removal method. The key is to match the method to your specific situation, whether it’s a small patch or a large infestation.
Manual Removal And Hand Pulling
Hand pulling works best for small patches or when the soil is moist. The shallow root system makes it satisfyingly easy to lift, but you must be thorough.
- Water the area deeply the day before. Soft soil releases roots more cleanly.
- Use a hand fork or dandelion weeder to loosen the soil around the main clump.
- Grasp the main stem near the base and pull slowly and steadily. Try to get the entire network of runners.
- Shake off excess soil into a bucket. Do not compost the pulled plants if they have seeds or roots.
- Bag the debris and dispose of it in the trash.
After pulling, watch the spot for three weeks. Any tiny piece of stem left behind can root and start a new plant. Use a sharp hoe to sever new growth at the soil surface before it establishes.
Smothering With Mulch Or Plastic
Smothering is a non-chemical way to kill large areas. Creeping jenny needs light to photosynthesize and energy to regrow. Blocking light for a full season starves the roots.
- For garden beds: Lay down 4-6 layers of wet newspaper or cardboard over the infested area.
- Overlap the edges by at least 6 inches to prevent light leaks.
- Cover the paper with 3-4 inches of wood chip mulch or compost.
- For tough spots, use black plastic sheeting weighed down with rocks or soil staples.
Leave the covering in place for at least one full growing season. Check monthly for holes or tears. This method requires patience but is very effective for solarizing the soil and killing the root system.
Using Herbicides Safely And Effectively
For large invasions or creeping jenny mixed into turfgrass, selective herbicides are the most practical option. You have two main choices: non-selective and selective.
Non-selective herbicides like glyphosate kill everything they touch. They work well for spot-treating patches in driveways or bare soil. Apply on a dry, windless day. Wait 7-10 days for the plant to die, then pull it up.
Selective broadleaf herbicides containing triclopyr or dicamba are safer for lawns. They kill the creeping jenny but spare the grass. Look for products labeled for “broadleaf weed control” in lawns.
- Mix the herbicide according to label instructions exactly.
- Add a few drops of dish soap (non-degreasing) to help the spray stick to the waxy leaves.
- Spray the foliage thoroughly, but not to the point of runoff.
- Do not mow for 2-3 days before or after application.
- Apply when temperatures are between 60°F and 85°F for best absorption.
You will likely need a second application 3-4 weeks later. Creeping jenny has a waxy cuticle that resists chemicals, so a surfactant is critical for success.
Vinegar And Natural Homemade Sprays
Household vinegar (5% acetic acid) is a contact herbicide. It burns the top growth but rarely kills the roots. For a better chance, use horticultural vinegar with 20% acetic acid, but handle it with extreme care as it can burn your skin.
A common recipe includes:
- 1 gallon of white vinegar
- 1 cup of table salt
- 1 tablespoon of dish soap
Mix and spray on sunny days. The salt dries out the plant, and the soap helps it penetrate. Be aware that salt will sterilize the soil, preventing anything from growing there for months. Use this only in areas where you want nothing else to grow, like cracks in pavement.
Improving Drainage And Soil Conditions
Creeping jenny loves compacted, wet soil. By improving your soil, you make the environment less hospitable for it and more favorable for your desired plants.
Aerate your lawn in the fall to reduce compaction. Top-dress with compost to improve drainage. In garden beds, mix in coarse sand or perlite to break up heavy clay. Healthy, vigorous grass or ground cover will outcompete the creeping jenny over time.
Preventing Regrowth And Reinfestation
Removal is only half the battle. The other half is keeping it from coming back. These steps will help you stay ahead of the problem.
Maintain A Dense, Healthy Lawn
A thick lawn leaves no room for weeds. Mow high (3-4 inches) to shade the soil. Water deeply and infrequently to encourage deep grass roots. Fertilize in the fall and spring with a slow-release nitrogen formula. Overseed bare patches in the early fall to fill in gaps.
Install Physical Barriers
If creeping jenny is invading from a neighbor’s yard or a nearby garden bed, install a physical barrier. Bury a metal or plastic edging strip 6-8 inches deep into the soil. This prevents the underground runners from crossing into your territory.
Monitor And Act Early
Walk your property every two weeks during the growing season. Look for the small, round leaves at the edges of your lawn or under shrubs. The moment you spot a sprig, pull it out. Early intervention is the cheapest and easiest way to prevent a full-blown infestation.
Dealing With Creeping Jenny In Specific Areas
Your approach may vary depending on where the weed is growing. Here are tailored tips for common problem zones.
In Flower Beds And Borders
Hand pulling is safest here to avoid harming your ornamentals. Use a narrow trowel to follow the runners between your plants. After removal, apply a thick layer of mulch to suppress any seeds or fragments. For persistent spots, use a paintbrush to apply a non-selective herbicide directly to the leaves, avoiding your flowers.
In Lawns And Turfgrass
Use a selective broadleaf herbicide that contains triclopyr. This chemical is very effective against creeping jenny without damaging most turfgrasses. Apply in the fall when the plant is storing energy in its roots for winter. This makes the herbicide more effective at killing the entire plant, not just the leaves.
Around Ponds And Water Features
Creeping jenny thrives in moist conditions, so it often grows near water. Avoid using herbicides near water bodies as they can harm aquatic life. Instead, rely on hand pulling and smothering. Be extra careful not to drop fragments into the water, as they can float downstream and establish new colonies.
When To Call A Professional
Sometimes, the infestation is too large or in a difficult location for DIY methods. If you have a massive area covered, or if the creeping jenny is growing up through a rock wall or under a deck, a professional landscaper has the tools and experience to handle it. They can also apply commercial-grade herbicides that are not available to the public.
Consider hiring help if you have tried multiple methods without success after a full year. Persistent regrowth indicates you are missing a piece of the root system or the plant is coming from an unseen source.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Will boiling water kill creeping jenny?
A: Yes, boiling water will kill the top growth instantly. However, it rarely kills the deep roots. You will need to repeat this process several times over a few weeks. It is a good organic option for small patches on patios or walkways.
Q: Does creeping jenny die in winter?
A: In colder climates, the foliage dies back to the ground in winter. However, the roots survive underground and will send up new shoots in the spring. In milder climates, it may stay green year-round.
Q: Is creeping jenny safe to compost?
A: No, you should not compost it unless you have a hot compost pile that reaches 140°F for several days. The stems root easily, so they will survive a cold compost pile and spread when you use the compost.
Q: What kills creeping jenny but not grass?
A: Herbicides containing triclopyr or dicamba are selective and will kill broadleaf weeds like creeping jenny while leaving your turfgrass unharmed. Always follow the label directions for your specific grass type.
Q: Can I just mow creeping jenny to get rid of it?
A: Mowing will not kill it. It will only cut off the flowers and temporarily reduce the height. The plant will quickly regrow from the roots and stems left behind. Mowing is only useful to prevent seed production.
Getting rid of creeping jenny takes time and consistency. Do not get discouraged if you see regrowth after your first attempt. Combine hand pulling with smothering or a targeted herbicide for the best results. Stick with your chosen method, and you will eventually win the battle against this resilient ground cover.
Remember to always read and follow the label on any chemical product you use. Store them safely out of reach of children and pets. With a little elbow grease and patience, your yard will be free of this creeping invader.
One last tip: if you have a large area, tackle it in sections. Trying to do everything at once can lead to burnout and missed spots. Work on one bed or one corner of the lawn at a time, and celebrate each small victory. Eventualy, the persistent effort pays off, and you can enjoy a garden that is truly yours.