Pennsylvania’s cabbage season begins in late April when soil temperatures reach 45 degrees Fahrenheit. But knowing the **best time to plant cabbage in Pennsylvania** is more than just watching the calendar—it’s about understanding your region’s frost dates and soil conditions. Cabbage is a cool-season crop that thrives in the state’s varied climate, from the chilly Poconos to the warmer southeastern counties.
Planting at the right time ensures you get firm, sweet heads before summer heat or hard frosts arrive. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned gardener, this guide walks you through every step. Let’s dig into the details so you can enjoy a bountiful harvest.
Best Time To Plant Cabbage In Pennsylvania
For most of Pennsylvania, the ideal window for spring cabbage is 3 to 4 weeks before the last expected frost. This usually falls between mid-March and mid-April, depending on your location. The key is to plant when the soil is workable and not waterlogged.
Fall cabbage planting happens in mid-to-late summer, about 8 to 10 weeks before the first fall frost. For most areas, that means setting out transplants in late July or early August. Let’s break it down by region.
Spring Planting Windows By Region
Pennsylvania spans USDA hardiness zones 5a to 7b. Here’s when to plant spring cabbage in each zone:
- Zone 5a (northern tier, Poconos): Late April to early May. Soil warms slowly, so wait until it’s consistently above 45°F.
- Zone 5b (central PA, higher elevations): Mid-April to late April. Use row covers if a late frost threatens.
- Zone 6a (south-central, including Harrisburg): Early April to mid-April. Ideal for early varieties like ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’.
- Zone 6b (southeastern PA, Philadelphia suburbs): Late March to early April. You can often plant a bit earlier with protection.
- Zone 7a (extreme southeast, near Delaware): Mid-March to late March. Warm springs allow for an early start.
Always check your local frost dates. The Penn State Extension website has detailed maps for your county. A soil thermometer is your best friend—don’t rely solely on the calendar.
Fall Planting Windows By Region
Fall cabbage is actually easier for many gardeners because cooler weather improves flavor. Plant so heads mature before a hard freeze (below 28°F).
- Northern zones (5a, 5b): Plant transplants from late June to mid-July. Choose fast-maturing varieties (65-75 days).
- Central zones (6a): Plant from mid-July to early August. ‘Stonehead’ and ‘Ruby Perfection’ work well.
- Southeastern zones (6b, 7a): Plant from late July to mid-August. You have more time for longer-season varieties.
Fall planting often has fewer pest problems. Flea beetles and cabbage worms are less active in cooler weather. Plus, a light frost sweetens the cabbage—a real bonus.
Understanding Soil Temperature And Frost Dates
Cabbage seeds germinate best when soil is between 45°F and 85°F. But for transplants, the soil should be at least 45°F at planting depth. Cold, wet soil can stunt growth or cause root rot.
Here’s a simple way to check: Bury a soil thermometer 4 inches deep in the morning. If it reads 45°F or higher for three consecutive days, you’re good to go. If you don’t have a thermometer, watch for soil that crumbles easily—not sticky or muddy.
Last Frost Dates In Pennsylvania
These are approximate averages. Your microclimate may vary:
- Erie (northwest): May 10–15
- Scranton (northeast): May 15–20
- State College (central): May 5–10
- Harrisburg (south-central): April 20–25
- Philadelphia (southeast): April 10–15
For fall planting, know your first frost date. In northern PA, that’s around September 20–30. In the southeast, it’s October 15–25. Count backward from that date using the days to maturity on your seed packet.
Choosing The Right Cabbage Variety For Pennsylvania
Not all cabbages are equal when it comes to Pennsylvania’s climate. You want varieties that mature quickly for spring and handle heat for fall. Here are top picks:
Early Spring Varieties (50–70 Days)
- ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’: Heirloom, cone-shaped heads. Matures in 63 days. Tolerates light frost.
- ‘Golden Acre’: Round, compact heads. Ready in 60–65 days. Great for small gardens.
- ‘Farao’: Hybrid, very early (50 days). Good for tight spacing.
Main Season Varieties (70–85 Days)
- ‘Stonehead’: Dense, solid heads. Matures in 70 days. Resists splitting.
- ‘Ruby Perfection’: Red cabbage, 80 days. Adds color to salads and slaws.
- ‘Blue Vantage’: Hybrid, 75 days. Excellent disease resistance.
Fall And Storage Varieties (85–110 Days)
- ‘Brunswick’: Heirloom, 85 days. Good for sauerkraut.
- ‘Danish Ballhead’: Storage cabbage, 100 days. Keeps for months.
- ‘January King’: Ornamental and edible, 110 days. Survives light freezes.
For fall planting, choose varieties with at least 10 days of buffer before your first frost. That way, even if weather turns cold early, you still get a harvest.
Step-By-Step Planting Guide
Follow these steps for the best results. Timing is everything, but technique matters too.
1. Prepare The Soil
Cabbage needs rich, well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Test your soil a few weeks before planting. Add lime if pH is too low, or sulfur if too high.
Work in 2–3 inches of compost or well-rotted manure. Cabbage is a heavy feeder, so also add a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) at planting time. Mix it into the top 6 inches of soil.
2. Start Seeds Indoors (For Spring)
Start seeds 4–6 weeks before your transplant date. Use seed-starting mix in trays or pots. Keep them under grow lights or in a sunny window. Harden off seedlings for a week before moving them outside.
For fall cabbage, you can direct-seed in the garden in late June or July. But transplants give you a head start and more reliable results.
3. Transplant Seedlings
Space plants 12–24 inches apart, depending on variety. Rows should be 24–36 inches apart. Dig a hole deep enough to cover the stem up to the first true leaves. Water well after planting.
If a late frost is forecast, cover young plants with row covers or cloches overnight. Remove them in the morning.
4. Water Consistently
Cabbage needs about 1–1.5 inches of water per week. Keep soil evenly moist, especially during head formation. Inconsistent watering causes heads to crack or become tough.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to avoid wetting the leaves. Wet foliage encourages fungal diseases.
5. Mulch And Feed
Apply a 2-inch layer of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves) around plants. This conserves moisture, keeps soil cool, and suppresses weeds. Side-dress with compost or a nitrogen-rich fertilizer when heads start to form.
For fall cabbage, a light feeding in early September helps push growth before frost.
Common Problems And Solutions
Even with perfect timing, issues can arise. Here’s what to watch for:
Pests
- Cabbage worms: Green caterpillars that chew holes in leaves. Handpick or use Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis).
- Flea beetles: Tiny jumping beetles that make small holes. Use row covers early in the season.
- Aphids: Clusters of small insects on leaf undersides. Spray with insecticidal soap or strong water stream.
Diseases
- Club root: Swollen, distorted roots. Prevent by rotating crops and maintaining proper pH.
- Black rot: Yellow V-shaped lesions on leaf edges. Avoid overhead watering and remove infected plants.
- Downy mildew: White fuzzy growth on leaves. Improve air circulation and avoid crowding.
Environmental Issues
- Splitting heads: Caused by rapid water uptake after dry spell. Water consistently and harvest promptly.
- Bolting (going to seed): Triggered by temperature swings. Plant at the right time and use shade cloth in heat.
- Poor head formation: Often from nitrogen deficiency or overcrowding. Thin plants and fertilize properly.
Harvesting And Storage Tips
Harvest cabbage when heads are firm and full-sized. Cut the stem at the base with a sharp knife. Leave a few outer leaves attached to protect the head.
For spring cabbage, harvest before temperatures consistently exceed 80°F. Heat causes heads to become loose and bitter. For fall cabbage, you can leave it in the ground through light frosts—it actually improves sweetness.
Store cabbage in the refrigerator for 2–3 weeks. For longer storage, keep it in a cool, humid root cellar (32–40°F, 90% humidity). Some varieties like ‘Danish Ballhead’ can last 3–4 months.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I Plant Cabbage In Pennsylvania In July?
Yes, for a fall harvest. Plant transplants in mid-to-late July in most areas. Choose fast-maturing varieties (60–70 days) to ensure heads form before frost.
What Is The Best Month To Plant Cabbage In Pennsylvania?
For spring, April is generally best—early April in the south, late April in the north. For fall, August is ideal in most regions, though July works in northern zones.
How Late Can I Plant Cabbage In Pennsylvania?
For fall, you can plant as late as mid-August in the southeast, but early August is safer. In northern areas, late July is your cutoff. Check your first frost date and count backward.
Do I Need To Start Cabbage Seeds Indoors?
It’s recommended for spring planting to get a head start. For fall, direct seeding works if you have enough time. Transplants are more reliable for both seasons.
Can Cabbage Survive Pennsylvania Winters?
Some hardy varieties like ‘January King’ can survive light freezes (down to 20°F) with protection. But most cabbage won’t survive a hard Pennsylvania winter without a cold frame or hoop house.
Final Tips For Success
Planting at the right time is half the battle. The other half is consistent care. Water deeply, watch for pests, and don’t let the soil dry out. Cabbage is forgiving if you give it what it needs.
Keep a garden journal. Note your planting dates, weather patterns, and harvest times. Over a few seasons, you’ll develop a feel for your microclimate. And don’t be afraid to experiment with different varieties—some might surprise you.
Remember, the best time to plant cabbage in Pennsylvania is when your soil is ready, your frost dates are known, and you have a plan. With a little preparation, you’ll be enjoying homegrown coleslaw, stir-fries, and sauerkraut all year round.