Culantro thrives in partial shade with consistently moist soil, unlike its cousin cilantro. If you have been wondering how to grow culantro, you are in the right place because this herb is a staple in Caribbean, Asian, and Latin American cooking. It has a much stronger flavor than cilantro, so a little goes a long way in soups, rice, and marinades.
The good news is that culantro is actually easier to grow than cilantro in warm climates. It does not bolt (flower and go to seed) as quickly when the weather heats up. This makes it a fantastic choice for gardeners who struggle with keeping cilantro alive through the summer months.
In this guide, we will walk you through everything you need to know. We will cover soil prep, planting methods, watering schedules, and harvesting tips. You will have a thriving patch of this pungent, serrated-leaf herb in no time.
Understanding Culantro Basics
Before you put seeds in the ground, it helps to understand what this plant likes. Culantro (Eryngium foetidum) is a tropical perennial. It is native to the Americas but grows wild in many tropical regions.
Unlike cilantro, which has fine, feathery leaves, culantro has long, spiky, dark green leaves. It forms a low rosette. The leaves can grow up to 10 inches long. If you let it flower, it produces a spiky thistle-like bloom, but you should pinch those off to keep the leaves coming.
Key Growth Requirements
- Light: Partial shade is best. Morning sun with afternoon shade is ideal.
- Soil: Rich, loamy soil with lots of organic matter.
- Water: Needs constant moisture. Do not let it dry out completely.
- Temperature: Prefers 65°F to 85°F. It will slow down in extreme heat.
- Hardiness: Perennial in zones 10-12. Annual elsewhere.
If you live in a hot climate, do not plant culantro in full sun. The leaves will scorch and turn yellow. A spot under a tree or on the east side of your house is perfect.
How To Grow Culantro From Seed
Growing culantro from seed is the most common method, but it requires a little patience. The seeds have a notoriously slow and erratic germination rate. Do not be discouraged if you see nothing for two to three weeks.
Here is the step-by-step process for starting seeds.
Step 1: Prepare The Seeds
Culantro seeds are actually tiny fruits that contain two seeds each. They germinate best when they are fresh. Soaking the seeds in warm water for 24 hours before planting can help speed things up.
You can also gently nick the seed coat with a nail file. This process, called scarification, allows water to penetrate the tough outer shell.
Step 2: Sow The Seeds
- Fill a seed tray or small pots with a light seed-starting mix.
- Press the seeds onto the surface of the soil. Do not bury them too deep.
- Cover them with a very thin layer of soil (about 1/8 inch).
- Mist the soil gently with water.
- Cover the tray with a plastic humidity dome to keep moisture in.
Place the tray in a warm spot that is out of direct sunlight. A temperature of around 75°F is ideal. Keep the soil consistently damp but not waterlogged.
Step 3: Wait For Germination
Germination can take anywhere from 14 to 30 days. Be patient. Once the seedlings have two sets of true leaves, you can transplant them into larger pots or into the garden.
Space the plants about 8 to 10 inches apart. They grow into large rosettes, so they need room to spread out. If you are planting in a pot, use a container that is at least 12 inches deep.
Growing Culantro In Containers
Container gardening is a great option for culantro. It allows you to control the soil quality and move the plant to the perfect light conditions. Plus, it keeps the aggressive roots contained.
Choose a pot with good drainage holes. Fill it with a high-quality potting mix. Mix in some compost or worm castings to provide nutrients.
Here are some tips for container success:
- Use a pot that is at least 10 inches wide for a single plant.
- Place the pot in a location that gets 4-6 hours of morning sun.
- Water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
- Fertilize every 4-6 weeks with a balanced liquid fertilizer.
One of the biggest mistakes with container-grown culantro is letting it dry out. The leaves will wilt quickly and become tough. If you see wilting, water immediately. It usually recovers within a few hours.
Soil Preparation For Garden Beds
If you are planting directly in the ground, soil preparation is key. Culantro loves rich, well-draining soil. Heavy clay or sandy soil will not work well without amendments.
Start by loosening the soil to a depth of about 12 inches. Remove any rocks or debris. Then, mix in a 2-inch layer of compost. This improves drainage and adds the organic matter the plant craves.
If your soil is heavy clay, consider building a raised bed. This prevents water from pooling around the roots, which can cause rot. If your soil is sandy, add more compost to help retain moisture.
Test the pH if you can. Culantro prefers a soil pH between 5.5 and 6.5. Most garden soils fall within this range, but it is good to check.
Watering And Fertilizing Schedule
Consistent moisture is the secret to tender culantro leaves. This plant does not like to dry out. However, it also does not like soggy feet. The goal is to keep the soil evenly moist, like a wrung-out sponge.
During hot weather, you may need to water every day. In cooler weather, every two to three days is usually enough. Use a soaker hose or water at the base of the plant to keep the leaves dry. Wet leaves can lead to fungal diseases.
Fertilizing is simple. Culantro is a heavy feeder, especially when you are harvesting leaves regularly. Use a balanced fertilizer like a 10-10-10. Apply it every four to six weeks during the growing season.
Alternatively, you can top-dress the soil with compost every few weeks. This provides a slow release of nutrients. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as they can make the leaves taste bitter.
Light And Temperature Requirements
Getting the light right is crucial. In the tropics, culantro naturally grows under the canopy of larger plants. It is used to dappled sunlight. Replicating this in your garden will yield the best results.
Here is a simple breakdown:
- Full Sun (6+ hours): Too harsh. Leaves will yellow and bolt.
- Partial Shade (4-6 hours): Perfect. Morning sun is best.
- Full Shade (less than 4 hours): Will grow, but slower and less robust.
Temperature also matters. Culantro stops growing when temperatures drop below 50°F. If you live in a cooler climate, grow it in a pot so you can bring it indoors for the winter. It makes a decent houseplant if you give it enough humidity.
In very hot climates (above 90°F), the plant will go dormant. It will stop producing new leaves until the weather cools down. Providing afternoon shade can help mitigate this.
Harvesting Culantro Leaves
You can start harvesting culantro once the plant has at least 6 to 8 leaves. This usually takes about 8 to 10 weeks from seed. Harvesting is simple. Cut the outer leaves at the base of the stem.
Always leave the inner rosette of leaves intact. This allows the plant to continue producing. If you cut the center of the plant, it will stop growing.
Here is how to harvest properly:
- Use sharp scissors or garden shears.
- Select the largest, oldest leaves on the outside.
- Cut the leaf stem as close to the soil as possible.
- Rinse the leaves and use them fresh, or store them.
Fresh culantro leaves do not store well in the fridge. They tend to get slimy. Instead, you can freeze them. Chop the leaves and place them in an ice cube tray. Cover with water or olive oil and freeze. Pop out a cube whenever you need flavor.
You can also dry culantro, but it loses a lot of its potency. Fresh or frozen is always better.
Common Pests And Diseases
Culantro is relatively pest-free, but it is not immune. Aphids are the most common pest. They love the tender new growth. You can wash them off with a strong spray of water or use insecticidal soap.
Slugs and snails can also be a problem, especially in damp, shady areas. Use beer traps or diatomaceous earth around the base of the plants.
Fungal diseases, like root rot, happen when the soil is too wet. Ensure good drainage and do not overwater. If you see yellowing leaves, that is a sign of overwatering or too much sun.
Leaf miners can also tunnel through the leaves. If you see squiggly lines on the foliage, remove the affected leaves and dispose of them. Do not compost them, as the larvae can survive.
Propagating Culantro Without Seeds
If you have a mature plant, you can propagate it through division. This is faster than growing from seed. In the spring, carefully dig up the entire plant. Use a sharp knife to cut the root ball into two or three sections. Make sure each section has some roots and leaves.
Replant the divisions immediately in prepared soil. Water them well. They will establish quickly. This is a great way to expand your patch or share with friends.
You can also try rooting cuttings in water. Take a stem with a few inches of growth. Place it in a glass of water. Roots should appear in about two weeks. However, division is generally more reliable.
Using Culantro In The Kitchen
Once you have a good harvest, you need to know how to use it. Culantro is not a substitute for cilantro in salads because the leaves are too tough. Instead, it is used as a cooking herb. The flavor is intense and slightly citrusy.
Add culantro at the end of cooking. Long cooking times will destroy the delicate volatile oils. It is perfect for:
- Rice dishes
- Stews and soups
- Marinades for meat
- Salsa verde
- Curry pastes
Start with a small amount. A single leaf can flavor an entire pot of soup. You can always add more, but you cannot take it out.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is culantro the same as cilantro?
No, they are different plants. Cilantro has thin, lacy leaves and a milder flavor. Culantro has long, serrated leaves and a much stronger, more pungent taste. Culantro is also more heat-tolerant.
Why is my culantro not germinating?
Culantro seeds are notoriously slow. They can take up to a month. Fresh seeds have a higher germination rate. Soaking them and providing bottom heat can also help speed up the process.
Can I grow culantro indoors?
Yes, you can. Use a pot with good drainage and place it in a bright window that gets indirect light. A grow light can help if you do not have enough natural light. Keep the soil moist and provide humidity.
How long does a culantro plant live?
As a perennial in warm climates, it can live for several years. However, the flavor is best in the first year. After that, the leaves can become tougher. Many gardeners treat it as an annual and replant each year.
Does culantro need full sun?
No, it actually prefers partial shade. Too much direct sun can scorch the leaves. Aim for 4-6 hours of morning sun with afternoon shade, especially in hot climates.
Final Tips For Success
Growing culantro is a rewarding experience. It is a hardy plant that gives you a big yield for little effort. The key takeaways are simple: keep it moist, give it shade, and harvest the outer leaves.
Do not be afraid to experiment with it in your cooking. Its bold flavor can transform a simple dish. Once you start growing it, you will wonder how you ever cooked without it.
If you live in a cooler climate, start your seeds indoors in late winter. This gives the plant a head start. You can move it outside once the danger of frost has passed. With a little care, you will have a steady supply of this fantastic herb.
Remember that patience is required during germination. Do not give up on the seeds too early. They will sprout when they are ready. And once they do, they grow quickly and require very little fuss.
So grab some seeds, find a shady spot, and get planting. Your future soups and stews will thank you.