Burlap wrapping works best after the first hard freeze, when plants have entered full dormancy. If you are wondering **how to wrap shrubs for winter** correctly, you have come to the right place. This guide will show you exactly what materials to use and the precise steps to protect your investment from harsh winds, heavy snow, and freezing temperatures.
Wrapping isn’t just about aesthetics. It is about survival. Evergreens lose moisture through their leaves all winter long, and frozen soil prevents roots from replacing that water. A proper wrap blocks drying winds and prevents sunscald, which happens when winter sun heats the bark during the day and then temperatures plummet at night.
Let us walk through the entire process, from timing to tying the final knot.
Why Shrubs Need Winter Protection
Winter is tough on landscaping. The combination of freezing air, bright sun, and heavy ice can cause permanent damage. Young shrubs and certain broadleaf evergreens are the most vulnerable.
Here are the primary threats your shrubs face:
- Desiccation: Wind pulls moisture out of leaves faster than roots can absorb it.
- Sunscald: Sun warms the bark on sunny days, then sudden freezing kills the tissue.
- Snow Load: Heavy, wet snow can snap branches or splay them apart permanently.
- Salt Spray: Road salt splashes onto foliage, causing browning and dieback.
- Animal Damage: Deer and rabbits use shrubs as a winter food source when other food is scarce.
Wrapping is not necessary for every shrub. Hardy native species often survive fine without it. However, if you have boxwoods, rhododendrons, yews, or newly planted specimens, wrapping is a smart move.
You should also consider wrapping if your shrubs are in an exposed location. A spot facing the south or west gets the most winter sun, which increases the risk of sunscald.
When To Wrap Shrubs For Winter
Timing matters more than most people think. Wrapping too early traps heat and moisture, which can cause the plant to keep growing or develop fungal diseases. Wrapping too late means the damage has already started.
The ideal window is late fall, after the first hard freeze but before the ground completely freezes solid. In most regions, this falls between late November and mid-December.
Here is a simple rule: wait until the leaves have dropped from deciduous trees and the shrub has gone dormant. For evergreens, wait until nighttime temperatures are consistently below freezing.
Do not wrap on a warm, sunny day. The plant might still be actively moving water. Wait for a cold, overcast day to do the job.
How To Wrap Shrubs For Winter
Now we get to the core of the matter. This is the step-by-step method for wrapping your shrubs effectively. You do not need to be a professional landscaper to do this well. You just need the right materials and a bit of patience.
Gather The Right Materials
Before you start, collect everything you need. This saves you time and frustration.
- Burlap: Use natural burlap, not the plastic-coated kind. It needs to breathe.
- Twine: Natural jute twine is best. It holds well and degrades naturally.
- Stakes: Wooden or bamboo stakes, about 3-4 feet tall.
- Scissors or Shears: For cutting the burlap to size.
- Gloves: Burlap can be rough on your hands.
You can also use a commercial shrub cover, which looks like a drawstring bag. These work well but are less customizable than a roll of burlap.
Step 1: Prepare The Shrub
Start by cleaning up the area around the base of the shrub. Remove any fallen leaves, weeds, or debris. This prevents pests and diseases from overwintering under the wrap.
Next, inspect the shrub for broken or dead branches. Cut them off cleanly with pruning shears. You do not want to wrap a broken branch, as it will just rot inside the burlap.
Water the shrub deeply a few days before wrapping. This is critical for evergreens. They need all the moisture they can get before the ground freezes.
Step 2: Drive In The Stakes
If you are wrapping a tall shrub, you will need stakes to keep the burlap off the foliage. Drive three or four stakes into the ground around the shrub, about 6 inches away from the outermost branches.
Push the stakes down until they are firm in the soil. If the ground is already frozen, you may need a mallet. The stakes should be slightly taller than the shrub itself.
For small, low-growing shrubs, you can skip the stakes. You will wrap the burlap directly around the foliage, which works fine for compact plants.
Step 3: Wrap The Burlap
Now for the main event. Start at the bottom of the shrub and work your way up. Overlap each layer of burlap by about 4 to 6 inches.
Wrap the burlap loosely. You want to create a windbreak, not a straightjacket. If you wrap too tightly, you will break branches and restrict airflow.
For a shrub with stakes, wrap the burlap around the outside of the stakes. This creates a protective barrier between the wind and the plant. The air gap acts as insulation.
For a shrub without stakes, wrap the burlap directly around the foliage. Pull it snug but not tight. You want to hold the branches in place without crushing them.
Step 4: Secure The Wrap
Once you have reached the top of the shrub, secure the burlap with twine. Tie the twine at the top, then spiral it down the shrub to the bottom.
Do not tie the twine too tight. You are just holding the burlap in place, not squeezing the plant. A loose spiral is perfect.
At the bottom, tie the twine off securely. You can also use a few landscape staples to pin the burlap to the ground. This prevents wind from getting underneath and lifting the wrap.
Step 5: Leave The Top Open (Optional)
Here is a common mistake: sealing the top of the shrub completely. This traps moisture and heat, which leads to mold. Unless you are dealing with extreme cold, leave the top slightly open.
You can gather the burlap at the top and tie it loosely, leaving a small opening. This allows heat to escape and air to circulate. Think of it like a chimney for the shrub.
For snow-heavy areas, you might want to leave the top fully open. This allows snow to fall through instead of accumulating on top of the wrap and crushing the shrub.
Alternative Wrapping Methods
Burlap is the classic choice, but it is not the only option. Depending on your situation, you might prefer one of these alternatives.
Using A Commercial Shrub Cover
These are pre-made bags made of breathable fabric. They come in various sizes and have a drawstring at the bottom. Simply slip the cover over the shrub and pull the drawstring tight.
These are incredibly easy to use. They are also reusable for several years if you store them properly. Look for covers made of polypropylene or heavy-duty fleece.
Building A Windbreak Fence
If you have a row of shrubs, a windbreak fence might be more efficient. Drive stakes at the corners of the row and attach burlap to create a screen. This blocks prevailing winds without enclosing each plant individually.
This method is great for large hedges. It allows for more airflow than individual wraps and is easier to install.
Using Cardboard Or Paper
In a pinch, you can use corrugated cardboard or several layers of newspaper. This works well for protecting the lower trunk of young trees and shrubs from sunscald.
Wrap the cardboard around the trunk and secure it with twine. Remove it in the spring, as cardboard can hold moisture against the bark and cause rot.
When To Remove The Wraps
Knowing when to unwrap is just as important as knowing when to wrap. Leaving the burlap on too long can cause problems as the weather warms.
Remove the wraps in early spring, as soon as the worst of the cold weather has passed. This is usually in late March or early April, depending on your region.
Watch the forecast. If a hard freeze is predicted after you have removed the wraps, you can loosely drape a sheet over the shrubs overnight. Remove it during the day.
Do not remove the wraps on a sunny day. The sudden exposure to bright sun can shock the plant. Wait for an overcast day or do it in the late afternoon.
Once you remove the burlap, inspect the shrub for damage. Look for broken branches, discolored bark, or signs of rodent activity. Prune any damaged areas to promote new growth.
Common Mistakes To Avoid
Even experienced gardeners make mistakes when wrapping shrubs. Here are the most common pitfalls and how to avoid them.
- Wrapping Too Early: This traps heat and encourages growth, which then gets killed by frost.
- Wrapping Too Tight: This restricts airflow and can break branches.
- Using Plastic: Plastic does not breathe. It traps moisture, causing fungal diseases and rot.
- Sealing The Top: This creates a greenhouse effect, cooking the plant on sunny days.
- Ignoring Watering: Wrapping does not replace the need for adequate moisture before the ground freezes.
- Leaving Wraps On Too Long: This suffocates the plant and promotes disease as temperatures rise.
Avoid these mistakes and your shrubs will come through winter in much better shape.
Special Considerations For Different Shrub Types
Not all shrubs are created equal. Different types have different needs when it comes to winter protection.
Broadleaf Evergreens
These include boxwoods, rhododendrons, and hollies. They are the most susceptible to winter damage because they keep their leaves all year. They lose water through those leaves, and winter winds can dry them out completely.
Wrap these shrubs thoroughly. Consider using an anti-desiccant spray on the leaves before wrapping. This adds an extra layer of protection against moisture loss.
Needle Evergreens
Yews, junipers, and arborvitaes are more tolerant of cold, but they still suffer from snow load and wind damage. Wrap them loosely to hold the branches together.
For upright arborvitaes, you can wrap them with a spiral of twine from bottom to top. This keeps the branches from splaying apart under heavy snow.
Newly Planted Shrubs
Anything planted in the last two years needs extra protection. Their root systems are not fully established, making them more vulnerable to frost heave and desiccation.
Wrap them carefully and also add a thick layer of mulch around the base. Mulch insulates the roots and helps retain soil moisture.
Frequently Asked Questions
Here are answers to some common questions about winter shrub protection.
Can I Use Plastic Wrap Instead Of Burlap?
No, you should avoid plastic wrap. Plastic does not allow air or moisture to pass through. This creates a humid environment that encourages fungal growth and can cook the plant on sunny days. Always use a breathable fabric like burlap.
How Many Layers Of Burlap Do I Need?
One layer is usually sufficient for most shrubs. If you live in a very cold climate or have a particularly sensitive shrub, you can use two layers. Just make sure the layers are loose enough to allow airflow.
Should I Wrap Shrubs Before Or After The First Snowfall?
You should wrap them before the first heavy snowfall. The goal is to have the wrap in place before the ground freezes. Wrapping after a heavy snow is difficult and the snow may already have caused damage.
Do I Need To Water My Shrubs Before Wrapping Them?
Yes, you should water deeply a few days before wrapping. This is especially important for evergreens. They need adequate moisture in their tissues to survive the winter. The water also helps the roots settle before the ground freezes.
What Is The Best Way To Protect Shrubs From Deer In Winter?
Burlap wrapping offers some protection from deer, but it is not foolproof. For heavy deer pressure, you should also use a repellent spray or build a physical fence. A fence made of wire or netting is the most reliable method to keep deer away.
Final Tips For Success
Wrapping shrubs for winter is a simple task that pays off big in the spring. Here are a few final tips to ensure you get it right.
First, always use clean materials. Old burlap that has been sitting in the garage might harbor pests or diseases. Wash it or use new burlap to be safe.
Second, label your wrapped shrubs. This helps you remember what is underneath when you are looking at a row of burlap mummies in March.
Third, check your wraps periodically during the winter. After a big storm, make sure the burlap has not come loose or blown away. Re-secure it if necessary.
Finally, be patient in the spring. Some shrubs look a little sad when you first unwrap them. Give them a few weeks to green up before you decide they are dead. Prune away any obviously dead wood, and new growth will usually follow.
With these steps, your shrubs will be protected and ready to thrive when spring arrives. A little effort now saves you from expensive replacements later.