Removing lily of the valley requires digging deep to eliminate every underground rhizome. If you are searching for how to get rid of lily of the valley, you already know this plant is a stubborn invader. It spreads fast and hides its roots well, so a simple pull will not work.
This guide gives you a clear, step-by-step plan. You will learn the best digging methods, herbicide options, and long-term control tricks. We will also cover smothering and solarization, so you can pick the strategy that fits your yard.
Why Lily Of The Valley Is So Hard To Remove
Lily of the valley looks delicate, but it is a powerhouse. It grows from thin, white rhizomes that travel just under the soil surface. These roots can snap easily, leaving a piece behind that will regrow into a new plant.
The plant also produces seeds, but the main problem is the root system. Even a tiny root fragment, about the size of a fingernail, can start a new colony. This is why you must be thorough and patient.
Another issue is the waxy coating on the leaves. This coating makes many liquid herbicides roll off, so you need a surfactant. We will cover that in detail later.
How To Get Rid Of Lily Of The Valley: Manual Digging
Digging is the most reliable method for small patches. It is hard work, but it removes the roots physically. You need the right tools and a plan to avoid breaking the roots.
Tools You Will Need For Digging
- A sharp spade or shovel
- A garden fork for loosening soil
- A hand trowel for fine root removal
- A sturdy bucket for collecting roots
- A sieve or screen for sifting soil (optional)
Do not use a rototiller. It will chop the rhizomes into many small pieces, spreading the problem. Stick to hand tools for control.
Step-By-Step Digging Process
- Water the area the day before. Moist soil holds roots together better than dry dirt.
- Insert the spade about 6-8 inches away from the plant base. Angle it inward to lift the root ball.
- Lift the entire clump gently. Do not pull on the leaves, as they will detach from the roots.
- Shake off loose soil over a tarp. This helps you see the white rhizomes clearly.
- Pick out every root piece by hand. Use the trowel to scrape the soil in the hole.
- Sift the removed soil through a screen to catch any broken root fragments.
- Place all roots in a bucket. Do not compost them, as they will survive and regrow.
After digging, wait two weeks and check the area for new shoots. If you see any, dig them out immediately. This follow-up is critical for success.
Using Herbicides For Large Infestations
If the patch is huge, digging is not practical. You can use a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate. This chemical kills the plant down to the roots, but it takes time and careful application.
Choosing The Right Herbicide
Look for a product with glyphosate as the active ingredient. It is systemic, meaning it travels from the leaves to the rhizomes. Avoid contact herbicides that only burn the top growth, as they will not kill the roots.
You also need a surfactant. This is a spreader-sticker that helps the liquid stick to the waxy leaves. Many garden centers sell a premixed product, or you can add a few drops of dish soap to your sprayer.
Best Time To Spray
Spray in late summer or early fall. At this time, the plant is sending energy down to the roots for winter storage. This makes the herbicide more effective. Spring spraying is less effective because the plant is growing upward.
How To Apply The Spray
- Wait for a dry day with no wind. Rain will wash off the chemical.
- Mix the herbicide according to the label instructions. Add the surfactant.
- Spray the leaves until they are wet but not dripping.
- Do not mow for at least two weeks after spraying.
- Watch for yellowing in 7-14 days. This means the chemical is working.
- Reapply after 3-4 weeks if you see green growth.
Be careful with glyphosate near desirable plants. It is non-selective, so it will kill anything it touches. Use a shield or a paintbrush to apply the chemical only to the lily of the valley leaves.
Smothering And Solarization Methods
If you do not want to use chemicals, smothering is a good option. This method blocks sunlight, which eventually kills the plant. It takes a full season, but it is effective and safe.
Smothering With Cardboard And Mulch
- Mow or cut down the lily of the valley to ground level.
- Water the area lightly to moisten the soil.
- Lay down thick cardboard over the entire patch. Overlap the edges by 6 inches.
- Wet the cardboard so it conforms to the ground.
- Cover with 4-6 inches of wood chips or mulch.
- Leave it in place for at least one full growing season.
Check the edges regularly. Rhizomes can escape from the sides, so you may need to extend the barrier. After 12 months, remove the mulch and check for any surviving shoots.
Solarization With Clear Plastic
This method uses heat to kill the roots. It works best in hot, sunny climates. You need clear plastic, not black, because the heat builds up underneath.
- Mow the area and remove the debris.
- Water the soil deeply.
- Lay clear plastic over the patch. Secure the edges with rocks or soil.
- Leave it for 4-6 weeks during the hottest part of summer.
- Remove the plastic and check for regrowth.
Solarization is less reliable for lily of the valley than for annual weeds. The rhizomes are deep and can survive moderate heat. Use this method only as a supplement to digging.
How To Get Rid Of Lily Of The Valley With Vinegar
Many people ask about natural remedies like vinegar. Household vinegar (5% acetic acid) will burn the leaves, but it does not kill the roots. It is a temporary fix that may slow the plant down.
For a stronger effect, use horticultural vinegar (20% acetic acid). This is more potent, but it is also dangerous to your skin and eyes. Wear protective gear and spray carefully.
Even with horticultural vinegar, the roots will likely survive. You will need to repeat the treatment many times over several months. It is not a quick or easy solution.
If you want to try it, mix the vinegar with a little dish soap. Spray on a sunny day. Expect to see the leaves turn brown within a few hours, but new growth will appear soon after.
Preventing Lily Of The Valley From Coming Back
Once you remove the plant, you must prevent regrowth. The soil will still contain tiny root fragments, so you need a barrier. A physical barrier is the best defense.
Installing A Root Barrier
You can bury a plastic or metal barrier around the area. Dig a trench 12-18 inches deep. Insert the barrier vertically, leaving 2 inches above the soil. This stops the rhizomes from spreading outward.
Use a thick, high-density polyethylene plastic. Landscape fabric is not enough, as the roots can push through it. The barrier must be continuous, with no gaps at the corners.
Regular Monitoring And Maintenance
Check the area every two weeks during the growing season. Pull out any new shoots as soon as you see them. The sooner you act, the easier it is to control.
You can also plant a competitive ground cover to fill the space. Plants like hostas or ferns will shade the soil and outcompete any lingering lily of the valley roots. Just make sure the ground cover is not invasive itself.
What Not To Do When Removing This Plant
There are some common mistakes that make the problem worse. Avoid these actions to save yourself time and frustration.
- Do not mow the patch as a control method. Mowing only trims the leaves and encourages the roots to grow thicker.
- Do not till the soil. Tilling chops the rhizomes into many pieces, creating dozens of new plants.
- Do not compost the roots. The rhizomes survive the composting process and will spread in your garden.
- Do not use a flame weeder. Burning the leaves does not reach the roots, and it can damage the soil.
- Do not give up after one attempt. Expect to repeat the process for at least two seasons.
Another mistake is spraying herbicide on a windy day. The chemical can drift onto your flowers or vegetables. Always check the weather forecast and use a shield.
Dealing With Lily Of The Valley In Lawns
If the plant has invaded your lawn, the strategy is different. You cannot dig up the entire lawn, so you need a targeted approach. Spot treatment with a non-selective herbicide is the most practical option.
Use a small paintbrush to apply the glyphosate to the leaves. This avoids killing the grass. After the plant dies, you can reseed the bare spots with grass seed.
Alternatively, you can dig out the individual clumps with a hand trowel. This is tedious, but it preserves the lawn. Follow up by checking the area for regrowth every week.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does Boiling Water Kill Lily Of The Valley?
Boiling water will kill the top growth, but it rarely reaches the deep rhizomes. It is not a reliable method. You may need to pour boiling water on the same spot multiple times over several weeks, and the roots may still survive.
Can I Use Salt To Kill Lily Of The Valley?
Salt can kill the plant, but it also ruins the soil. It will prevent anything else from growing for a long time. It is not recommended for garden beds. Use it only in areas where you want nothing to grow.
How Long Does It Take To Get Rid Of Lily Of The Valley?
With diligent digging and follow-up, you can see results in one season. However, complete eradication often takes 2-3 years. The key is persistence. You must remove every new shoot before it establishes roots.
Is Lily Of The Valley Poisonous To Pets?
Yes, all parts of the plant are toxic to dogs and cats. If you are removing it, wear gloves and wash your hands. Keep pets away from the area until you have disposed of the plant material.
Will Vinegar And Dish Soap Kill The Roots?
No, vinegar and dish soap only burn the leaves. The roots are unaffected. You would need to apply it repeatedly for months, and even then, the plant will likely regrow. Digging or a systemic herbicide is more effective.
Final Thoughts On Eradication
Getting rid of lily of the valley is a test of patience. The plant is designed to survive, so you must be smarter and more persistent. Start with digging for small patches, or use a systemic herbicide for large areas.
Remember to check the area regularly and remove any new growth immediately. A root barrier can help contain the spread. With consistent effort, you can reclaim your garden from this beautiful but aggressive plant.
Do not get discouraged if you see regrowth after a few weeks. That is normal. Just keep at it, and eventually, the root system will exhaust itself. Your garden will be free of this invader, and you can plant something else in its place.
If you have a large infestation, consider combining methods. Dig out the main clumps, then spray the remaining shoots. This two-pronged approach gives you the best chance of success. Good luck with your removal project.