This rare anthurium variety stands out for its rounded, pancake-shaped spathe that collectors often mistake for a different species entirely. The anthurium dorayaki is a hybrid that has taken the tropical plant community by storm, not because of its flowers, but because of its unusual foliage.
If you have seen photos of a plant with leaves that look like flat, green pancakes stacked on top of each other, you have likely been looking at this specific cultivar. It is a must-have for serious collectors, but it is also surprisingly manageable for dedicated beginners who are willing to learn its specific needs.
Anthurium Dorayaki
This plant is named after the Japanese dessert, dorayaki, which is a sweet pancake filled with red bean paste. The comparison is spot on. The leaves are thick, round, and often have a slight cupping shape that mimics the dessert. Unlike other anthuriums that have elongated, heart-shaped, or strap-like leaves, this one grows in a compact, circular form.
It is important to understand that this is a hybrid, not a naturally occurring species. It was created by crossing specific parent plants to achieve that unique leaf shape. The most common parentage involves Anthurium crystallinum and
Key Characteristics To Identify
- Leaf Shape: Nearly perfectly round or orbicular. The width is often almost equal to the length.
- Texture: Velvety to the touch, similar to other crystal anthuriums.
- Veins: Prominent, silver-white veins that stand out against the dark green leaf surface.
- Petioles: The stems connecting the leaf to the main stem are usually round and smooth, not ridged like some other species.
- Growth Habit: Compact and clumping, rather than tall and vining.
Because of these features, it is often confused with Anthurium round hybrid or even Anthurium regale. However, the dorayaki tends to have a more rigid, less drooping leaf structure.
Light Requirements For Growth
Getting the light right is the most critical factor for keeping the leaves flat and large. If the light is too low, the petioles will stretch, and the new leaves will come out smaller and elongated. If the light is too harsh, the leaves will burn or turn yellow.
You should aim for bright, indirect light. A north or east-facing window is usually perfect. If you only have a south or west window, you must filter the light with a sheer curtain. Direct sunlight, especially during the afternoon, will scorch the velvety leaves quickly.
Signs Of Incorrect Lighting
- Too Much Light: Pale green leaves, brown crispy edges, or bleaching.
- Too Little Light: Dark green leaves with very faint veins, long stems reaching towards the window, and slow growth.
If you are using grow lights, keep them on for 10-12 hours a day. Place the light about 12-18 inches above the plant. You want the light to be strong enough that the plant casts a soft shadow, but not so strong that you feel heat radiating from the bulb onto your hand.
Soil Mix And Potting Strategy
This anthurium is an epiphyte, meaning it grows on trees in the wild. It does not like heavy, dense soil that stays wet. You need a chunky, airy mix that allows oxygen to reach the roots while still holding enough moisture to prevent the roots from drying out completely.
A standard aroid mix works well. You can buy a pre-made mix or make your own. Here is a simple recipe that works for most growers:
- Mix 3 parts orchid bark (medium grade).
- Add 2 parts perlite or pumice.
- Add 1 part horticultural charcoal.
- Add 1 part sphagnum moss (chopped).
This mix drains quickly. When you water it, the water should run straight out of the drainage holes. The bark and perlite create air pockets. The sphagnum moss holds a little bit of water so the roots don’t dry out too fast.
Pot Selection
Use a pot that is only slightly larger than the root ball. These plants like to be snug in their pots. If you put a small plant in a huge pot, the soil will stay wet for too long, which can lead to root rot. A clear plastic pot is a good option because it lets you see the roots and check the moisture level of the soil.
Watering Frequency And Humidity
Watering is where most people struggle. The goal is to keep the soil evenly moist, but never soggy. You should wait until the top 2-3 inches of the soil are dry before watering again. Stick your finger into the soil to check. If it feels damp, wait another day or two.
When you do water, water thoroughly. Pour water over the entire surface of the soil until it drains out of the bottom. Do not let the plant sit in standing water. Empty the saucer after 15 minutes.
Humidity Needs
This plant loves humidity. It thrives in environments with 60% to 80% relative humidity. In a standard home, the humidity is often around 40-50%, which is acceptable but not ideal. Low humidity will cause the edges of the leaves to brown and the new leaves to have trouble unfurling.
To increase humidity, you can:
- Use a humidifier near the plant.
- Place the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water.
- Group it with other plants to create a microclimate.
Avoid misting the leaves directly. The velvety texture can hold water on the surface, which can lead to bacterial or fungal spots. If you must mist, only do it in a well-ventilated area and ensure the water evaporates quickly.
Temperature And Air Circulation
As a tropical plant, the anthurium dorayaki prefers warm temperatures. Keep it between 65°F (18°C) and 85°F (29°C). It will not tolerate frost or temperatures below 55°F (13°C) for extended periods. If you take it outside in the summer, bring it back inside when the nights start to get cool.
Air circulation is just as important as temperature. Stagnant air can lead to pests and rot. A gentle fan in the room can help, but do not point it directly at the plant. The airflow should be gentle, not a strong breeze that dries out the leaves.
Fertilizing For Healthy Foliage
You do not need to fertilize heavily. These plants are not heavy feeders. Over-fertilizing can burn the roots and cause the leaf tips to turn brown. During the growing season (spring and summer), you can feed it once a month with a balanced liquid fertilizer.
Dilute the fertilizer to half the recommended strength. A fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 3-1-2 or 20-20-20 works well. In the fall and winter, stop fertilizing entirely. The plant will slow down its growth and does not need the extra nutrients.
Calcium And Magnesium
Anthuriums often benefit from added calcium and magnesium. You can add a small amount of worm castings to the top of the soil. Or, you can use a fertilizer that includes these micronutrients. This helps prevent issues like leaf curling or deformed new growth.
Propagation Methods
Propagating the dorayaki is not as easy as cutting a vine. Because it is a clumping plant, the best way is to divide it during repotting. When the plant has multiple crowns or growth points, you can separate them.
- Remove the plant from its pot.
- Gently shake off the old soil from the roots.
- Locate the natural divisions where the stems separate.
- Use a clean, sharp knife to cut through the rhizome connecting the sections.
- Ensure each section has at least 2-3 healthy roots.
- Pot each division in a small pot with fresh aroid mix.
Keep the new divisions in a humid environment for the first few weeks. You can place them in a clear plastic bag or a propagation box to help them recover from the shock of being moved.
Common Pests And Diseases
Like most indoor plants, this anthurium can be susceptible to pests. The most common ones are spider mites, thrips, and mealybugs. Because the leaves are velvety, pests can be hard to spot at first.
Spider Mites
These are tiny, almost invisible pests that cause stippling (tiny yellow dots) on the leaves. They thrive in dry conditions. To treat them, wipe the leaves with a damp cloth and apply an insecticidal soap. You must repeat the treatment every few days to break the life cycle.
Thrips
Thrips are small, slender insects that cause silvery streaks on the leaves. They are very hard to get rid of. You may need to use a systemic insecticide to treat the soil, as thrips lay their eggs inside the leaf tissue.
Root Rot
This is a fungal disease caused by overwatering. The roots turn black and mushy, and the leaves will turn yellow and droop. If you suspect root rot, remove the plant from the pot, cut away the affected roots, and repot in fresh, dry soil.
Why Leaves Turn Yellow
Yellow leaves are a common complaint. There are several reasons why this happens. It is rarely a single issue, so you need to check your care routine.
- Overwatering: The most common cause. The roots are suffocating.
- Underwatering: The soil is bone dry for too long.
- Nutrient Deficiency: Lack of nitrogen or magnesium.
- Natural Aging: The oldest leaves will eventually turn yellow and die off. This is normal.
If only the bottom leaves are yellowing, it is likely natural aging. If all the leaves are yellowing, you likely have a watering issue.
Why Leaves Are Not Round
Sometimes, the new leaves come out elongated or with wavy edges. This is usually a sign of low humidity or inconsistent watering. The leaf is developing while the plant is stressed. To fix this, increase the humidity and make sure you are watering on a regular schedule.
Another reason could be that the plant is a “reverted” hybrid. Some hybrids will produce leaves that look more like one parent than the other if they are not stable. This is rare, but it happens. If you bought it from a reputable seller, it should be stable.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Anthurium Dorayaki rare?
Yes, it is considered a rare plant. It is a specific hybrid that is not mass-produced like common anthuriums. Because it takes time to grow and propagate, it is often sold at a premium price.
What is the difference between Anthurium Dorayaki and Anthurium crystallinum?
The main difference is the leaf shape. Crystallinum has elongated, heart-shaped leaves. Dorayaki has round, pancake-shaped leaves. Both have similar velvety textures and silver veins, but the shape is the easiest way to tell them apart.
Can I grow Anthurium Dorayaki in a terrarium?
Yes, it can grow well in a terrarium if the terrarium is large enough. The high humidity in a terrarium is excellent for this plant. However, you must ensure there is enough air circulation to prevent mold growth.
How fast does Anthurium Dorayaki grow?
It is a moderate grower. Under ideal conditions, it can produce a new leaf every few weeks. However, it is not a fast-growing plant. It takes time to reach a large, impressive size.
Why are the edges of my leaves turning brown?
Brown edges are usually caused by low humidity or a buildup of salts from tap water. Try using filtered or distilled water. Also, increase the humidity around the plant. If you are fertilizing too often, flush the soil with clean water to remove excess salts.
The anthurium dorayaki is a rewarding plant that brings a unique texture to any collection. It requires a bit of attention to its environment, but the payoff is a stunning, sculptural plant that looks unlike anything else. With the right light, soil, and watering schedule, you can keep this rare beauty thriving for years. Remember to be patient with it. It grows on its own time, and that is part of the charm.
If you are new to rare aroids, start by observing your plant daily. Learn its cues. When the soil feels dry, water it. When the leaves look dull, check for pests. This hands-on approach is the best way to ensure success. The dorayaki is not a low-maintenance plant, but it is not a diva either. It simply needs consistent, thoughtful care.
As it matures, the leaves will get larger and the round shape will become more pronounced. It is a slow process, but watching a new leaf unfurl into that perfect pancake shape is one of the most satisfying experiences for a plant collector. Do not be afraid to adjust your care routine as the seasons change. What works in the summer might not work in the winter. Keep an eye on the temperature and humidity, and your plant will reward you with steady growth.