Comparing fenestration patterns helps distinguish these two monstera relatives, as laniata shows elongated holes while lechleriana displays rounder perforations. When you are trying to decide between the monstera laniata vs lechleriana, you might feel a bit overwhelmed because both plants look similar at first glance. They are both stunning climbers with large, glossy leaves that develop those iconic splits and holes as they mature.
However, there are several clear differences that you can use to tell them apart. These differences include leaf texture, stem details, and the shape of the leaf base. In this guide, you will learn exactly how to identify each plant, understand their care needs, and pick the right one for your indoor jungle.
Monstera Laniata Vs Lechleriana
This comparison is important for collectors because misidentification is very common in nurseries and online stores. Many sellers label these plants incorrectly, which can lead to confusion about proper care. Once you know the specific traits, you will be able to spot the differences immediately.
Let us break down the physical characteristics, growth habits, and care requirements for both species. You will also find a helpful FAQ section at the end to answer common questions.
Key Differences In Leaf Shape And Size
The most reliable way to tell these plants apart is by looking at the leaves. While both have fenestrations, the pattern and shape of those holes are distinct.
- Monstera laniata: The fenestrations are typically elongated and oval-shaped. The holes look like slits that run parallel to the leaf veins. The leaf base is often asymmetric, meaning one side is slightly larger or shaped differently than the other.
- Monstera lechleriana: The fenestrations are rounder and more open. They tend to be positioned closer to the center of the leaf. The leaf base is more symmetrical and often has a distinct, heart-shaped or cordate form.
Size is another indicator, although it can vary based on growing conditions. In general, the lechleriana produces larger leaves that can reach up to 3 feet in length when mature. The laniata also grows large, but its leaves are usually a bit narrower and more elongated overall.
When you look at the leaf texture, you will notice that the laniata has a slightly rougher, more leathery feel. The lechleriana leaf is smoother and sometimes has a subtle velvety sheen to it. Run your fingers gently across the surface to feel the difference.
Examining The Stems And Petioles
Looking at the stems, or petioles, can give you more clues. The petiole is the small stalk that connects the leaf to the main vine.
For the lechleriana, the petioles are usually smooth and green. They do not have a lot of texture or winging. The laniata, on the other hand, often has petioles that are slightly rough or have small, bumpy textures near the base. This is not always obvious, but it is a good secondary characteristic to check.
Another difference is how the new leaves emerge. The laniata tends to produce new leaves that are a brighter, lighter green compared to the mature foliage. The lechleriana new growth is often similar in color to the older leaves, just slightly softer.
Growth Habit And Climbing Behavior
Both plants are hemiepiphytes, which means they climb trees in their natural habitat. However, their growth habits differ slightly when grown indoors.
The monstera laniata is known for being a vigorous climber. It will quickly attach itself to a moss pole or trellis. It produces internodes that are spaced closer together, giving the plant a fuller, bushier appearance as it grows up a support.
The monstera lechleriana has a more upright growth habit. It tends to grow taller with longer internodes between leaves. This gives it a more open and statuesque look. It still needs a support structure to reach its full potential, but it does not climb as aggressively as the laniata.
If you have limited space, the laniata might be easier to manage because it stays more compact. If you want a tall, statement plant that takes up vertical space, the lechleriana is a great choice.
Comparing Fenestration Development
Young plants of both species will have solid, heart-shaped leaves without any holes. This is normal. The fenestrations only appear as the plant matures and receives adequate light.
You should look at mature leaves to make a proper identification. Here is a quick breakdown of what to expect:
- Juvenile leaves: Both have solid leaves. No holes or splits.
- Sub-adult leaves: The laniata will start showing small, oval slits. The lechleriana will develop rounder, eye-shaped holes.
- Mature leaves: The laniata has deep, elongated fenestrations that may reach the leaf edge. The lechleriana has larger, rounder holes that stay within the leaf blade.
Light is the biggest factor in fenestration development. If you keep your plant in a dark corner, it will stop producing holes. To encourage those beautiful splits, you need to provide bright, indirect light for at least 6 hours a day.
Care Requirements For Both Species
The care for these two plants is very similar. They both come from tropical rainforests and need warm, humid conditions to thrive. However, there are a few nuances to keep in mind.
Light Needs
Both plants prefer bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight can scorch the leaves, causing brown patches. A spot near an east-facing window is ideal. If you only have a south or west window, use a sheer curtain to filter the light.
If you notice that the new leaves are coming out without fenestrations, it is a sign that the plant needs more light. Move it closer to the window gradually to avoid shocking it.
Watering Schedule
You should let the top 2-3 inches of soil dry out between waterings. Overwatering is the most common cause of root rot in these plants. Use a pot with drainage holes to ensure excess water can escape.
During the winter months, reduce watering frequency. The plant goes into a slower growth phase and will not absorb as much water. Check the soil moisture with your finger before watering.
Soil And Potting Mix
A chunky, well-draining soil mix is essential. You can use a pre-made aroid mix or create your own. A good recipe is:
- 2 parts potting soil
- 1 part perlite
- 1 part orchid bark
- 1 part peat moss or coco coir
This mix provides aeration for the roots and prevents water from pooling around them. Repot your plant every 1-2 years or when you see roots coming out of the drainage holes.
Humidity And Temperature
These tropical plants love humidity. Aim for a humidity level of 60% or higher. You can achieve this by using a humidifier, placing a pebble tray with water under the pot, or grouping plants together.
Keep the temperature between 65°F and 80°F (18°C to 27°C). Avoid placing the plant near drafty windows, air conditioning vents, or heating units. Sudden temperature changes can cause stress and leaf drop.
Fertilizing Routine
Feed your plant with a balanced liquid fertilizer once a month during the growing season (spring and summer). Dilute the fertilizer to half strength to avoid burning the roots. Stop fertilizing in the fall and winter.
You can also use a slow-release fertilizer mixed into the top layer of soil. This provides a steady supply of nutrients over several months.
Common Misidentifications And Lookalikes
Many people confuse these plants with other monstera species. The monstera adansonii is often mistaken for the laniata. In fact, the laniata is sometimes considered a subspecies or variant of adansonii by some botanists.
The key difference is that the adansonii has smaller leaves and more numerous fenestrations. The laniata has larger leaves with fewer, but longer, holes. The lechleriana is sometimes confused with the monstera acuminata, but the acuminata has a more pointed leaf tip.
To avoid buying the wrong plant, always ask the seller for a photo of the mature leaf. If they cannot provide one, be cautious. You might be buying a plant that is not what you expected.
Which One Should You Choose?
Your choice depends on your personal preference and your space. Here is a simple guide to help you decide:
Choose Monstera laniata if:
- You want a plant that climbs and fills out a moss pole nicely.
- You prefer leaves with dramatic, elongated slits.
- You have a smaller space and want a more compact grower.
Choose Monstera lechleriana if:
- You want a taller, more upright statement plant.
- You like rounder, more symmetrical leaves.
- You want a plant that is slightly easier to find in nurseries.
Both plants are equally easy to care for. The main difference is purely aesthetic. You cannot go wrong with either one.
Propagation Tips For Both Plants
Propagating these monsteras is straightforward. The best method is stem cutting in water or soil. Here is a step-by-step guide:
- Use a clean, sharp pair of scissors or pruning shears.
- Cut a stem that has at least one node and one leaf. The node is the bumpy part on the stem where roots will grow.
- Place the cutting in a glass of water. Make sure the node is submerged, but the leaf is not.
- Change the water every 3-4 days to keep it fresh.
- Wait for roots to grow to about 2-3 inches long. This usually takes 2-4 weeks.
- Plant the rooted cutting in a well-draining soil mix.
- Keep the soil moist for the first few weeks to help the roots acclimate.
You can also propagate directly in soil. Just dip the cutting in rooting hormone and plant it in moist soil. Keep the soil consistently moist and provide high humidity to encourage root growth.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is Monstera laniata the same as Monstera adansonii?
A: They are very closely related. Many botanists consider laniata to be a variety or subspecies of adansonii. The main difference is leaf size and the shape of the fenestrations. Laniata has larger leaves with longer, more elongated holes.
Q: Why is my Monstera lechleriana not producing holes?
A: The most common reason is insufficient light. These plants need bright, indirect light to produce fenestrations. If the plant is young or in a dark spot, it will only produce solid leaves. Move it to a brighter location and be patient.
Q: Which plant is rarer, laniata or lechleriana?
A: The lechleriana is generally less common in the houseplant trade. However, the laniata is often mislabeled, making it seem rarer than it is. Availability varies by region and season.
Q: Can I grow these plants in low light?
A: They can survive in low light, but they will not thrive. Growth will be slow, and the leaves will not develop fenestrations. For best results, provide bright, indirect light.
Q: Are these plants toxic to pets?
A: Yes, like all monsteras, they contain calcium oxalate crystals. These crystals are toxic to cats and dogs if ingested. Keep the plants out of reach of curious pets.
Final Thoughts On Identification
Distinguishing between these two plants takes a bit of practice. Start by looking at the fenestration shape. Elongated holes point to laniata, while rounder holes point to lechleriana. Then check the leaf base for symmetry.
Remember that young plants are hard to identify. Wait until the plant has a few mature leaves before making a final judgment. If you buy a plant that is labeled incorrectly, do not worry. You still have a beautiful monstera to enjoy.
Both the laniata and the lechleriana are rewarding plants to grow. They respond well to good care and will reward you with stunning, tropical foliage. Pick the one that speaks to you and give it the light, water, and humidity it needs.
With the information in this guide, you are now ready to confidently tell them apart. You can also impress your friends with your knowledge of these two amazing aroids. Happy growing and enjoy your beautiful monstera collection.